Nina Ricci for Avon

This mark was found on KJL for Avon Earrings. The earrings are also in an Avon box. Newer [2000] hallmark

1986- 1995 hallmark

"Mark." for Avon - A New Line

1945 - 1993? Cincinnati Ohio -B. David company was a small company that produced costume and fine jewelry. Their output was limited.  This company produced a famous crown pin. Follow the link above to visit the B David Gallery to see the crown. Signature Designs: Pretty rhinestone combinations, delicate jewelry.  Back to top

Founders: Alvin Rice, Robert Rice and Louis Mark-1946 -1957, Providence RI-This was not jewelry produced by McClelland Barclay which is very expensive and will have the full signature as a hallmark. Barclay first used a hallmark in 1948.Signature Designs: Rhinestones in colors [very often blue] set in gold tone metal.  Back to top

Founder (s): McClelland Barclay 1935 - 1943 -Many jewelry sleuths have spent time trying to decipher the connection if any between this maker and Barclay. the confusion begins with the company Rice- Weiner. Rice- Weiner made and stocked costume jewelry for McClelland Barclay and others including Korda. One of the former owners after leaving Rice- Weiner started Barclay. This confusion continued with what some call the deliberate stamping of similar hallmarks on both companies jewelry. McClelland Barclay was more than a jewelry designer. He was an esteemed painter and an illustrator. He was born in St. Louis, Missouri in the late 1800s. He studied at several art schools and went on to have his work featured in several magazines. During the 1920s and the 1930s he became world famous for his Art Deco jewelry. In 1943, while aboard a ship during WWII, he lost his life.  His fine creations live on! The jewelry is rare. He worked in sterling during 1942 and 1943.  The hallmark never appeared on a raised plaque. Techniques/Signature Looks:  Sculptural Art Deco jewelry, sterling silver.   Back to top

1950s - 1970s? -This is a little sketchy. I have read that the name Beau Jewels was used by Bowman Foster. This mark should not be confused with pieces marked Beau Sterling/Beaucraft. Beau Jewels only signed the earrings when they were part of a set. Signature Designs: Pretty color combinations, large brooches, filigree and rivet construction. Back to top

Beau Sterling  [Aka Beaucraft]

1944-? Providence RI.  As of 2004 they were still in business. I goggled their web site and their domain is not registered any longer.  I believe they are not in business at this time and I have read that they sold their molds! Trademark- BEAU-Producers of sterling silver jewelry. Signature Designs: Quality sterling jewelry.  Back to top

Founder (s): Herbert & Pohs, Inc., New York City. In operation from 1946 to 1979 -The company had a Providence R.I. office. Their medium to high quality costume jewelry sold at stores such as Lord & Taylor. Signature Designs: Known for their "real" looking costume jewelry. Medium to high quality costume jewelry.  Back to top

Les Bernard

Founder [s]/Owner [s]: Bernard Shapiro and Lester Joy ~ 1963- 1996 -The trademark Les Bernard is a combination of the founders names. Bernard Shapiro is the son of another well known costume jewelry maker, Harold Shapiro founder of Vogue Jewelry Company. Their pieces were innovative, utilizing techniques not seen before in costume jewelry. Les Bernard made jewelry for others. Materials and techniques included: Quality pieces using techniques not tried before such as the setting of flat backed marcasites and rhinestones in the same item. Combining different shapes and stones. The use of fabric, crystal and enamel. Back to top

Founder (s): Chicago IL, USA ~1930s - 1950s- As you can see by the above dates, the company was not in business for long. A showroom was opened in Chicago in the early 1940s on the second floor of the Merchandise Mart according to an ad shown in the book A Tribute to America by Carla and Roberto Brunialti. At least one piece of Block jewelry was designed by Sandor Goldberger. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Quality pieces made with top of the line rhinestones. Enamel pieces, plastic.  Back to top

Founder (s): Henry and Yvette Bogoff founded the Spear Novelty Company, Chicago, IL. 1946-circa 1960 -Together Henry and Yvette ran a successful jewelry company that was able to compete with other premier jewelry companies of the day. After Henry died the company was moved to New York. Copyright symbols do not appear on Bogoff jewelry. Signature Designs: Rhodium finished metal, silver tone metal, small rhinestones, pave set stones, leaf designs.  Back to top

Founder (s): Marcel Boucher 1937 -1971

Marcel Boucher got his training from the best! He trained with Cartier while living in his birthplace of France.  He then went to work for Mazer Brothers before deciding to open his own company. Marcel married his assistant Sandra Semensohn. Sandra designed watches for Marcel Boucher. She continued to run the company after his death in 1965. She also designed jewelry and was issued several patents. Eventually the company became a subsidiary of Dovorn Industry a watch maker. 

Design numbers accompanied the hallmarks on most Boucher costume jewelry. These numbers while helpful in trying to identify a date for your Boucher piece, they are not etched in stone.

Some Boucher hallmarks include: MB, Marcel Boucher, Marboux, Boucher, Parisina [used for sterling made in Mexico] and Earrite.  MB is one of the earliest marks. Usually this mark was accompanied by the Phrygian Cap. This mark is taken from the helmet worn by the French during the Revolution. There is some diverging opinions on when this mark was used. I have seen the following dates. 1944- 1949 and 1937- 1949.

Another mark is "Sterling" accompanying the MB mark.  The dates for this mark that I have seen are 1942- 1944.Signature Designs: Quality rhinestones, 3D birds that appear to be flying!  

FLOWER OF THE MONTH PIECES:

JAN: Carnation

Feb: Violets

March: Jonquil

April: Pansy

May: Lilly of the Valley

June: Rose

July: Lilium

August: Gladiolus

September: Dahlia

October: Orchard

November: Mum

December: Daffodil

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Phrygian Cap and Sterling Mark

These dates are approximations.

Marboux hallmark

Parisina hallmark

Founder (s): 1960s - 1970s -Very little is known about this company. I love a good mystery so I will keep trying to find out what I can and post it here. It is thought that this costume jewelry was made during the 1960s and the 1970s. The pin below is an good example of some of the pieces I have seen. Signature Designs: Christmas tree pins, gold tone metal, and wire work.  Back to top

Founder (s): Benny [B] Steinberg, Hy Slovitt [S] and Kaslo [K] - New York City-1948 to the early 1980s-BSK manufactured mid-quality costume jewelry that was sold in department stores. Their jewelry is easy to find on the market. There is limited information about this company. Signature Designs: Interesting gold -tone and gold plated designs. Average quality jewelry with enameling and rhinestones. Nice color combinations. Produced a line of enamel and rhinestone jewelry called "My Fair Lady".   Back to top

Founder (s): Dan Steneslieu and Steve Brody, 1945 into the 1980s, NYC-Not a lot is known about this company. Steve Brody was an actor. His partner was Romanian and their jewelry often reflected that bold style coupled with the glitz of Hollywood. This is high end costume jewelry that has been said to look real. Some say it rivals the beauty of fine jewelry. Their enameled Christmas trees and other holiday jewelry are highly collectable as is most of this Hollywood inspired jewelry. Signature Designs: Hand crafted jewelry. Big and bold jewelry utilizing exemplary materials from all over the world. Based upon movie star jewelry and popular with the "jet set". Glamorous!   Back to top

Founder (s): Providence RI, USA 1936 or 1937 - the 1980s -This company made sterling silver, gold over sterling and gold filled jewelry. They also manufactured 14k gold chains at some point. Most of the jewelry manufactured was dainty, but well made and of innovative design. Rhinestones were used in some of the designs. There is a great article on Carl- Art in the publication Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry, Vol.15, NO3, 2005. This article was written by Cheri Van Hoover who is also a fellow member of the Jewel Collect forum. Signature Designs: Sterling, gold over sterling retro looks, dainty. Back to top

Founder (s): Hattie Carnegie 1919 - 1970s- Hattie Carnegie was another fashion designer that made their way in the costume jewelry business. Born in Vienna in 1886, she came to the United States with her parents when she was a child. In 1918 she opened her fashion house in New York City. It was called Hattie Carnegie, Inc. Like Schiaparelli, Chanel and others she began to market jewelry she thought would look good with the outfits she designed. Her costume jewelry was a favorite amongst the actresses and socialites of the day. It was sold in some of the department stores. Carnegie jewelry was/is expensive and very well made. Signature Designs:  Oriental figurals, animals, rhinestone jewelry, and costume jewelry with Greek inspired motifs. Back to top

Founder (s): Clifford Burst and Joseph Bobley in New York City. 1918 - 1977 -The first use of the Castlecliff mark was in 1941. They also used Sterling Castlecliff and, Castlemark and Cassandra as hallmarks. Their jewelry was well made and sold in better department stores. In the 70s Castlecliff became part of Carnegie Industries Co. In the 80s the company became part of Lucien Piccard Industries. Signature Designs: Intricate designs reflective of history. Gothic, Art Deco and Renaissance in styling. Back to top

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Founder (s): Unclear ownership. New York City, NY, USA.  Possible dates of operation are 1950s - 1970s -Another costume jewelry company where the information available is sparse. It is widely believed that Celebrity costume jewelry was sold through house parties much like Sarah Coventry jewelry. It is possible to see unmarked pieces as some where marked only with a paper hang-tag and if a set, only one piece would be marked. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Silver and gold- tone jewelry, some rhinestone jewelry, mixed quality range. Back to top

Hallmarks:

The above says Celebrity NY

Celebrity

Celebrity©

Celebrity on a Plaque

Founder (s): Charel Jewelry Co., Inc., Brooklyn NY, USA, around 1945-It is not known when this company ceased operations. The jewelry is relatively rare and of medium quality. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Colored plastics including Thermoplastic  jewelry, Art Moderne influences. Back to top

Ciner

Owner and Designer: Founded by Emanuel Ciner in 1892- The company began making costume jewelry in 1931. It originally produced fine jewelry. Their jewelry has the look of real jewelry. Ciner costume jewelry is often referred to as the "Tiffany" of costume jewelry. Ciner costume jewelry is worn and loved by many including the rich and famous. Materials and techniques included: Real looking faux pearls from Japan, high quality material including rhinestones. Seed turquoise beads set mostly in gold tone metal. Back to top

Founder (s): Guglielmo Cini, Boston, MA, USA 1922-Guglielmo Cini was originally from Florence, Italy. He immigrated to the United States in 1922. Cini brought with him his talent for crafting jewelry. His early work was crafted in sterling silver and he also created gold plated jewelry. During the 1950s rhinestones began to appear in his work. Some of his clientele were movie stars and his reputation grew as one of the finest master jewelers. The company moved to Laguna Beach, CA in 1957, Cini died in 1979, however his wife an an apprentice named Felipe Mendoza continued the business.  I have read that between 1970 and 1993 the company stopped producing jewelry and then started up again in 1993. Cini jewelry is not always signed, however once you become familiar with his style it is easy to recognize the pieces.  Signature Designs/Techniques:  Sterling silver and gold- plated jewelry. Handmade jewelry. Reproductions of antique pieces, classical look jewelry, repoussé, filigree and 3-D jewelry.  Back to top

Founder (s): Premier Jewelry Co., Inc., New York City, NY, USA- Claudette is the trademark of the Premier Jewelry Company and it was first used in 1945.  It is not clear when this company ceased operations. Costume jewelry with the Claudette mark is rare. The rhinestone jewelry is usually well made. This company also produced plastic jewelry. The plastic jewelry is more available in the marketplace. Some of this jewelry is marked with a paper hang tag. Signature Designs/Techniques:  High quality rhinestone jewelry, thermo- plastic jewelry. Interesting shapes and colors.  Back to top

Gene Verrecchia was the head designer and responsible for such designs as the very popular "Coro Duettes". The company used many trade/hallmarks. Of note are Corocraft and Vendome, both were Coro's top of the line output. Coro Craft was introduced in 1937 and Vendome in 1944.  Coro jewelry could be found at many price points. The Coro Mexico line was produced at a taller owned by Hector Aquilar during the years 1943 to 1950. The company was purchased by The Richton International Corporation in 1957 and closed its doors in 1979. Designed and patented the interlocking mechanism for the "Coro Duettes" pins/clips and The "Quivering Camellia" line. Known for figurals and Jelly Bellies, floral and foliate as well as patriotic motifs. Materials used were diverse. Rhinestones, seed pearls, sterling silver, Lucite and so much more!  Back to top

Coro Pegasus Hangtag

Founder (s): Charles H. Stuart as Sarah Coventry, Inc. Newark NJ, USA ~ 1949- 1984 and again in the early 2000s to Present -Charles H. Stuart founded the Emmons Jewelers, Inc prior to founding Sarah Coventry, Inc. He named the former after his wife. He named the latter after his granddaughter. The jewelry was not sold at department stores, but rather in the home at parties. This was a wonderfully ingenious idea as it was just after WWII and woman were looking for not only income, but to keep up with the trend towards accessories. The jewelry for men and women was designed by outside companies in a variety of styles. Some of the jewelry had Victorian influences, some were exceptionally well made and most were not originally low in price. The company became the largest distributor of costume jewelry and remained so until a change of ownership and the waning popularity of the home party method of sales. Sarah Coventry catalogues are popular as they show the names of the pieces and help to date the jewelry. Between the early 1980s and 2002 the jewelry was not being produced. Sarah jewelry began to show up on the internet. In 2003 the jewelry began to be sold at home parties once again. Sarah Coventry jewelry has withstood the test of time.  Some of the pieces are very popular and have a price tag to prove it. The "Blue Lagoon" set [manufactured by DeLizza and Elster] "Midnight Madness" come to mind. Sarah Coventry jewelry was marked in many ways. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Varied designs and quality. Very elaborate Victorian looks, geometric Deco looks, simple chains to versatile combination jewelry. From rhinestones to interesting plastic stones. Back to top

Founder (s): Maurice J. Dalsheim, New York City, NY, USA ~ Late 1930s - 1978? - Founded as the Dalsheim Accessories Company. The company produced costume jewelry, however it is very rare. Most of the pieces were unsigned and marked only by a hangtag. Dalsheim costume jewelry was made with a variety of materials mostly seed pearls, plastic beads and glass. Due to the amount of unsigned Dalsheim costume jewelry and the great difficulty in attributing, this jewelry is not extensively collected. I have seen varying dates for the companies closure. Techniques:  Seed pearl necklaces, some rhinestones, glass and plastic. In 1951 there was an advertisement in Vogue for one of their "Bone" necklaces.   Back to top

 and Dalsheim©

White Jet

Paper hang tags

Founders/Owners: Victor Primavera ~1930s ~ Providence RI- Danecraft was first called Felch & Company. The "Felch" in the name being James Felch who some have said co-founded the company with Victor Primavera Sr. In 1945 Victor changed the name of the company to Danecraft after buying out James Felch. Victor's son Victor Primavera III came on board as did his daughter Gail. The company is still a family run business. Danecraft promoted their jewelry to better department stores.  Materials and techniques included: Sterling silver, vermeil. Jewelry that looks Scandinavian in design.  Back to top

Founder (s): Sol Finkelstein as the Deja Costume Jewelry Company, New York, NY, USA ~ 1939 - 1953 - This company had an interesting history as far as the name was concerned. Shortly after opening a company called Du Jay, Inc., accused Deja of infringement on their name copyright forcing Sol to change the name of his company to Reja. The company produced high quality costume jewelry that is considered highly collectable. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Creative designs, mask pins, florals and figural pins. Pot metal pieces with high quality rhinestones.  Back to top

Founder (s): William de Lillo and Robert Clark New York, NY USA ~ 1967- unknown- This company founded as the House of William de Lillo, Ltd., was only in business for a brief period of time therefore the costume jewelry produced is rare in today's market. William de Lillo was an immigrant from Belgium. Robert Clark worked at Miriam Haskell and was her chief designer during the 1960s.  Clark had previously worked at Harry Winston and Tiffany's. Known for innovative and very high quality jewelry made from the best materials including Swarovski rhinestones. At some point a line of men's jewelry and accessories was designed and manufactured. Back to top

Founder (s): William DeLizza and Harold Elster ~ 1947 New York - William's son's Frank and Anthony joined the company soon after it's inception.  In the 1960s the company began to produce the costume jewelry that so many have come to know and love - Juliana. These early pieces with colorful rhinestones were not marked in any way at first. During the early years the company also produced buckles and buttons and clear rhinestone jewelry. In 1967 Juliana Originals was created and the paper hang- tag made its appearance. The hang tag said "Juliana Original". Not all Juliana jewelry had a hang- tag. The jewelry had a limited run.  But, oh what a run!  Juliana is only one of the lines produced by this company. The company also produced costume jewelry that had other hang- tags attached. These read, "Tara" and "Gloria".  I believe these were for others rather than their own lines.

Many jewelry companies had their jewelry produced by D&E including but not limited to the following: Weiss, Alice Caviness, Ciro, Coro, Kramer, Kenneth Lane, Talbot's, Victoria's Secret,  Parklane, Karu, Hattie Carnegie and Yves St. Laurent. Some jewelry produced by this company for others was also unsigned. This is important because, your unsigned piece could be a D&E! Frank DeLizza is currently producing copies of some of the old jewelry designs.  

To find out more on this fabulous company please visit: Discovering Juliana Jewelry

View an article about his soon to be released book by visiting: Mr. Frank DeLizza Article

Update- April 27, 2007: The book has been released and it is a great read!  I highly recommend this book for a peek into the inside of this costume jewelry company.

Signature Designs: Clear rhinestone jewelry in the beginning. Large and colorful rhinestones. Navettes were used a lot, especially the thin ones. Art glass and other unusual stones. Kite shaped stones, intense color, five link bracelets and necklaces. Layered designs, and a term coined by a member of the Discovering Juliana Jewelry Group, "puddling". This refers to the extra plating that would mound up together between some of the joints on the reverse of a piece of jewelry.  Back to top

Click the image for the bigger view.

An example of "puddling". Click the image for the bigger view.

An Example the Five Link Construction

Kite Shaped Stones

Founder [s]/Owner [s]: Robert DeMario 1945 - 1960s ~ New York City - Robert DeMario worked for many of the New York jewelry companies of his day before striking out on his own. He did not work for Miriam Haskell, however  DeMario jewelry has a Haskell like look. It seems that along with Eugene and Stanley Hagler, information about their work at Haskell is false. DeMario had very high standards and it showed in his pieces. His jewelry became recognized for it's superior craftsmanship and the boldness of his designs. DeMario vintage jewelry is highly collectable and commands very high prices. Materials and techniques included: Similar design and techniques as Miriam Haskell. Layered and sewn beading, filigree backings, seed pearls and leaves that were intertwined. Very detailed clasps.  Back to top

Founder (s): Jerry DeNicola 1957 - Early 1970s ~ New York City, NY USA -Jerry DeNicola produced jewelry of high quality meant to rival the real thing. As a matter of fact, one of his early costume jewelry lines was called "The Real Thing". Now if that did not state his intentions nothing would have! Another line was called "Young America".  This mark was first used in 1964. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Bold, large and colorful jewelry that looks close to "real".  Figurals and astrological jewelry as well as Christmas jewelry.      Back to top

Founder (s): Ralph DeRosa, 1935 - 1970 ~ New York, NY, USA -DeRosa costume jewelry is exceptional in quality and design. The jewelry was often unmarked or marked only with paper hang tags. DeRosa signed jewelry is therefore rare and will command high prices. When a piece of DeRosa costume jewelry is signed, the mark could be difficult to read due to age and wear. This company was a family run operation. When Ralph DeRosa died in the early 1940s, his wife and his daughters continued to run the company. DeRosa manufactured jewelry for many companies including Elsa Schiaparelli. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Heavy floral brooches with rhinestones and or enameling. Combinations of simulated pearls and rhinestones. Unusual designs and choice of stones. Sterling vermeil. Back to top

Also: DeRosa imprinted in script, DeRosa Designed Jewels and RdeRosa

Founded as: Jewel Creations, Newark, New Jersey, USA ~ 1952-1997- Jewelry by this company, especially the Christmas jewelry was sometimes produced using kits that sold to aspiring jewelry crafters. The costume jewelry actually manufactured by the company is usually of high quality and is not abundant. Sometimes the hallmark on this costume jewelry cannot be easily read. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Glued in rhinestones of higher quality. Multicolored stones and cabochons.  Back to top

Dodds©

Dodds or Doddz

Founder (s): Dominique  ?- Present [Contemporary Designer] - Dominique has been designing jewelry for many years, however just began signing his jewelry in 1991. His work has been copied and I suppose that is a form of flattery. Nothing can compare to the real thing! Dominique designed jewelry for Weiss and Eisenberg. He is not producing that much jewelry these days and his jewelry is beginning to become highly sought out. Signature Designs: High quality rhinestones, staggering beauty, runway jewelry. Back to top

Found on Finger Ring

Founders: Stephen Dweck ~ New York City- Stephen Dweck is a much respected contemporary jewelry designer. He studied sculpture and painting in New York City. He launched his first line in 1981 at Bergdorf Goodman and it was all uphill from there. He was soon designing jewelry for high profile fashion designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Escada and Donna Karan. His unique costume jewelry also made it into fashion magazines and is on permanent display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Signature Designs: Natural stones, gold and sterling jewelry.  Jewelry that incorporates nature and art. Men's jewelry, belts and china. Back to top

Founder (s): Jonas Eisenberg, Chicago IL, USA  ~ 1914 - Present -Jonas Eisenberg was originally from Austria. He came to the United States in the late 1880s and soon opened a women's clothing firm. In 1914 Jonas's sons took over the clothing business. Prior to 1927, the fashions were not created by the Eisenberg company, rather the designs were "jobbed" out to others. In 1927 the company began to not only design, but also manufacture the clothing. Eisenberg Original was born. Like many others, Eisenberg complimented his fashions with beautiful accessories. The accessories, brooches early on, were made by others companies. They were crafted with the best Swarovski rhinestones and soon became very noticed! The son's noticed also and during the 1930s production and marketing of Eisenberg jewelry began in earnest. Early on the jewelry was not signed as it was only meant to compliment the clothing. Also the early costume jewelry produced by the company for sale was marketed separately from the clothing. In the late 1930s this all changed. The jewelry of these years was marked Eisenberg Original. In the early to mid 1940s the jewelry was marketed under the name Eisenberg Ice which became the official trademark of the company. During WWII, Eisenberg jewelry was produced in sterling silver. Several marks were used and some are listed or shown below. In the 1970s the Eisenberg company produced a line of enamel jewelry designed by well known artists of the time. See pin below. Eisenberg jewelry, especially the older pieces are sought out by collectors and rightfully command high prices. Signature Designs/Techniques:  The best of the best in terms of quality and sparkle. Pavé set ribbon or icing.

Founder (s): Charles H. Stuart as Emmons Jewelers, Inc. ~ 1949- 1981 -Like Sarah Coventry, this jewelry was sold at home parties. These parties had become very popular beginning in the 1950s.  Acting as a distributor, Emmons soon become one of the major players in the costume jewelry industry. Because Emmons jewelry was designed and made by others, looks and quality will vary. Back to top

Also: Emmons and Emmolite starting in 1955

Founder (s):  Evans Case Company- North Attleboro, MA, USA ~ 1920s - This company not only produced costume jewelry but also produced accessories such as cigarette cases, compacts and lighters. Their guilloche enameled compacts and cases are some of the most beautiful on the market. Their early costume jewelry was often enameled and some was done in pastels. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Enameling, pastels colors, gold plated metal and jewelry with a Czech look. Back to top

Evans 

Florenza

Founder (s): Dan Kasoff - New York City, NY, USA ~ Late 1940s - 1982 -Dan worked at the Speier Costume Jewelry Company for several years where he learned his craft. He left to open his own costume jewelry company. His son Larry worked at the company in several capacities. The name Florenza [after his wife Florence] was first used in the late 1940s or the early 1950s, however this company was producing costume jewelry under the name The Dan Kasoff Company prior to this. This company not only manufactured jewelry for themselves, they designed and manufactured jewelry for many other companies. Florenza jewelry is distinctive and has an antique look. It quite often resembles Victorian jewelry, especially the pieces that utilize filigree. As of this writing, Florenza jewelry is undervalued and under appreciated in the costume jewelry market. This company also produced accessories for cosmetics firms such as trinket and pill boxes. These were usually ornate. very well and like the jewelry, an interesting combination of stones was used. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Very well made costume jewelry. Beautiful metal work, usually in antiqued gold- tone. High quality materials. Vanity accessories. Back to top

Freirich

Founder (s):  Solomon Freirich, France ~ 1900s [I have also seen the date 1920 as the start- up date].  The company seems to have closed in 1990. This company could have been placed in either the American or European section as it had businesses in both the United States and in France. The original name of this firm was Maison David and they manufactured accessories only until around 1955 when they began to produce costume jewelry. The 1955 date is a best guess. In 1922, Mr. Freirich purchased the company and changed the name in the United States. Known for the buttons they made for Christian Dior and Chanel and for their antique look jewelry. In fact, their pieces are such good representations of Victorian jewelry; some has been mistaken for it.  Hallmarks were not used until the 1960s so the unsigned pieces were being attributed to the wrong period. Techniques/Materials:  Very high quality materials. Handmade. Filigree work. Victorian, antique look. Back to top

Founder (s):  Geraldine Giles as Gerry's Creations ~ 1950s - either 1996 or the early 2000s [I have seen both dates several times while researching this company]. New York City, NY, USA-There is very little information available about this company, however it seems they must have produced a lot of jewelry. I come across this jewelry often. I can attest to the widely held belief that this jewelry is quite common. I read in Fred Rezazadeh's book Costume Jewelry that several companies used this hallmark. Techniques/materials:  Figurals, enamel and Christmas pins. Back to top

Founder (s): Sandor Goldberger as the Sandor Goldberger Company New York ~ 1930s - 1972 -Sandor Goldberger began the company in the mid- to late 1930s. The company produced high quality rhinestone jewelry and beautiful life like enamel flower pins. Some of the jewelry was in the elaborately beaded style of Miriam Haskell. Sandor designed at least one piece for Fred A. Block.  See the book A Tribute to America by the Carla and Roberto Brunialti on page 165 and 167. These pages show and describe and Aztec Mask marked Fred A. Block that was designed by Sandor. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Enamel florals, high quality rhinestone pieces, sterling florals, antique gold plated jewelry, Miriam Haskell look faux pearl, bead and coral pieces. Back to top

Founder (s):  Ben Gartner as the Circle Jewelry Products- New York City, NY, USA ~ 1958 to possibly 1977, however this date is uncertain. The Goldette mark was first used in 1958. This company produced jewelry with designs that were influence by Victorian and Oriental looks. The necklaces often had several strands and elaborate clasps.  It is possible to find unsigned Goldette jewelry. You can usually tell if your piece was produced by this firm by looking at the clasps and the centerpieces. Techniques/materials: Gold- tone and silver- tone metal, elaborate clasps. sliding charm bracelets, enamel and colorful stone combinations. Back to top

Hallmarks: Goldette NYC and  Goldette

Founder (s):  Stanley Hagler 1950s to present ~ New York, NY, USA -Stanley Hagler 1950s - 1996 / Mark and Ian 1996 - Present

Ian St. Gielar [1953- 2007] Sadly, Ian St. Gielar died of a heart attack on  March 21, 2007.  His wife Valentina will continue the business using the name "Ian Gielar Studio".

There is an ongoing controversy regarding jewelry made bearing the mark of Stanley Hagler since his death. I am trying to stay out of this while still providing accurate information. Mark Mercy and Ian St. Gielar currently both use variations on the Stanley Hagler mark. Stanley Hagler began producing costume jewelry in the 1950s. His jewelry was unique and well made; however it was not the colorful Hagler jewelry that came later.  It has often been confused with that of Miriam Haskell. The jewelry was hand wired and he was known for his choose of the highest quality materials. Mr. Hagler was also known for his beautiful Russian gold- plated findings and filigree backings. I have seen his work described as "wearable art" and the man himself described as the "Picasso of jewelry." If you see a piece of Stanley Hagler jewelry you would have to agree. Through the years, Mr. Hagler built up quite the clientele including many stars. He also won the Swarovski Design Award in 1968 for the first of his eleven times. Mark Mercy joined the company in 1979.  According to the Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry magazine, Mark took on the work habits of Mr. Hagler. In 1983 the company relocates to Florida. The hallmark changes from "Stanley Hagler" to "Stanley Hagler N.Y.C.". Ian joins the company in 1989 and becomes the chief designer. Mr. Hagler passes away in 1996.  Mark and Ian continue to make jewelry in the style of Hagler.  They both design for Hollywood stars, political powerhouses and the like. Techniques/materials:  Jewelry that like Haskell uses seed pearls and are hand wired. Hand-blown glass, the best Swarovski crystals, large pieces that are layered and very intricate. Bold colors, gilt metal and the very famous Russian gold plated filigree backings.

UPDATE: 2008, Feb 21 - I have had the opportunity to communicate with Valentina Ian St. Gielar's widow and she has been kind enough to provide me with some information about her late husband and the Hagler company.  Here are some excerpts of her communication:

Color (as well as volume) was brought into Hagler's jewelry by Ian, in 1989.

 Hagler never retired - he passed most (and later all) of his duties on Ian.

***Hagler would never allow anybody to be a "Hagler's designer". He would never admit that Ian is actually designing his pieces. Same as, I bet, you don't know that many of earlier Hagler's designs were actually designed by Roselyn Kaplan of Baltimore (I have a Colorado newspaper with an article on this). Anyhow, Ian became an exception. There are letters and other documents. Back to top

Founder (s):  Hargo Jewelry Company - Dates unclear, actual name unclear, founders unclear. Well, we know the company existed, based upon the beautiful and imaginative jewelry showing the mark, however there really isn't much more information than that. The jewelry produced by this company is of high quality and workmanship. The Oriental themed pieces are highly sought after and command above average prices. Techniques/materials:  Genies, oriental themed figural pins, enameled pieces. Dragons and snake themes. Jewelry with faces. Some use of rhinestones and pearls. Back to top