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   Coro, Corocraft & Vendome
   Park Lane
   Sarah Coventry
   Alice Caviness
   Miriam Haskell
   Hattie Carnegie
   D&E, Juliana and Juliana Style
   Harry Iskin
   Kenneth Jay Lane, KJL, Kenneth Lane
   Mazer Brothers & Jomaz
   Little Nemo
   Accessocraft N.Y.C.
   Robert DeMario
   Nettie Rosenstein
   Matisse and Renoir
   Erwin Pearl
   Carl Art
   Karu Arke
   Whiting & Davis
   Joan Rivers
   Les Bernard
   Judy Lee
   Christian Dior
   Mimi di N
   Pauline Rader
   Stanley Hagler, Mark Mercy & Ian St. Gielar
   Joseff of Hollywood
   Michal Negrin
   Theodor Fahrner
   Unger Brothers
   Gerard Yosca
   Los Castillo
   Coppola e Toppo
   Walter Lampl
   Los Ballesteros

Iradj Moini

   David Andersen
   Fred A. Block

B. David
   Ben Amun
   William Kerr
   Kirks Folly
   Esther Lewittes
   Aksel Holmsen
   Jakob Bengel
   Auguste Bonaz
   Van Dell
   ORB [Otto R. Bade]
   N.E. From
   Graziella Laffi
   Husár D

Mary Frances
   Stephen Dweck
   Sam Kramer

Louis Rousselet  Catherine Popesco

 Sigi Pineda
   Josef Morton
   McClelland Barclay
   Lunch at the Ritz
   Larry Vrba
   Agatha Paris
   Leo Glass

Hans Hansen
   Engle Brothers
   Ed Wiener
   Adele Simpson
   Louis Féraud

Joseph Wiesner
   Lea Stein
   Thelma Deutsch

Maricela [Isidro Garcia Pina]
   Robert Mandle
   Antonio Pineda
   Butler and Wilson

Nolan Miller
   Suzanne Bjontegard
   Zoe Coste
   Henry Steig

   Selro & Selini

   Urie Mandle
   Nina Ricci
   Yves Saint Laurent, YSL

Anna Greta Eker
   Carl Ove Frydenburg, COF
   Rachel Gera
   Am Lee
   Oscar de la Renta
   Carol Dauplaise
La Roco

Henkel and Grosse
   Allan Adler
   Judith Jack
   Tone Vigeland

Ledo, Polcini

R.J. Graziano
   L. Razza

Michal Golan
   Du Jay
   Banana Bob

Jolie Gabor
   Stuart Nye
   Kay Denning
   Ultra Craft
   Paul Lobel
   Karl Lagerfeld
   Jorgen Jensen
   Ann Vien

   Edgar Berebi
   Scholtz and Lammel
   Norma Jean
   Bob Mackie
   Guy Laroche
   Dorothy Bauer
   Christopher Radko

Tancer II
   Christian Lacroix
   Elizabeth Taylor
   Mark Edge
   Laurel Burch

   Flying Colors
   Virgil Cantini
   Ed Levin
   Lilly Dache
   Bill Schiffer
   Jewels by Julio
   Amy Lacombe
   Irena Bryner, Irena Brynner
   Margot de Taxco

Caroline Gleik Rosene
   Judith Leiber
   Hess-Appel [Jolle]
   Phyllis Jacobs
   Rebecca Collins
   11 W. 30th Street
   James Arpad
   Jay Strongwater
   Erickson Beamon
   Vera Wang

   Thomas L. Mott, TLM
   Gret Barkin
   Kenneth Begay
   Kultaseppa Salovaara
   Marcin Zaremski
   Art Smith
   Sten & Laine
   David Mandel [The Show Must Go On]
   Sweet Romance
   Mary DeMarco
   Robert Gardner
   St. Labre
   Robyn Rush
   D'orlan, Dorlan
   Elsa Freund
   de Passille- Sylvestre
   Donald Stannard




[N to Z] plus European, Mexican and Modernist

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Amazing Adornments presents The History of American and European Costume Jewelry Designers and Manufacturers Including American Modernist Jewelry.  As we find out additional facts and gather additional hallmarks from the designer or manufacturer, we will add them. We will add additional designers as time permits and update these pages often. All hallmarks, maker's marks and gold or silver content marks on this page are from jewelry for sale or previously sold at our online store.

This is a work in progress!

and a labor of love

 Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

American Designers and Manufacturers

Back to Designer Hallmark and History Page One

Mimi Di N  
Mimi Di Nascemi 1960s to 1985?- Sicilian born. Studied in Paris and Phildeplphia. Worked for several designers including Arnold Scassi. I have read that she also worked for Robert DeMario. DeLizza and Elster produced some pieces for her. Many of her pieces have understated classic looks.  Back to top  

Founder (s): Whitney and Rice Company Attleboro, MA USA 1876 -Okay this gets a bit complicated as this company has been around for some time and has had a few name and location changes. Napier is one of the oldest jewelry companies in the United States, however the contemporary jewelry signed Napier, probably has very little in common with the jewelry produced by Whitney and Rice. Whitney and Rice was founded as a silver manufacturing company. They produced watches mostly. In 1882- 1883 the company was sold and the name was changed to Carpenter and Bliss and then again to E. A. Bliss and Company. [E.A. Bliss and J.E. Carpenter].  The company experienced above average growth and soon moved from MA to Meriden, Connecticut. In 1920 James Napier became president of the still growing company.  The name was changed to Napier Bliss Co. In 1922 the name was changed yet again to Napier Company. The company continued to thrive under Mr. Napier until his retirement in the 1960s.  Napier was sold in the 1990s. In 1999 the Meridian office/plant was closed.  Napier jewelry was being produced by the Jones Apparel Group and although very successful, the jewelry lacks the quality of the older pieces.  I checked the Jones Apparel website on January 14, 2007 and while Napier is still listed you can no longer click on the provided link. I have read that Jones Apparel stopped producing Napier jewelry and perhaps this explains the link. Further research required!  Speaking of research,  a member of the Jewel Collect online forum that I belong to is writing a book about this wonderful company. The book should go a long way to clear up some of the questions about Napier. The older pieces and the sterling silver pieces are sought after and very collectable.  Many hallmarks were used.  Back to top

1940s - perhaps 1950s New York as the Norma Jewelry Company. Sterling vermeil jelly bellies and sterling and rhinestone jewelry. Back to top

Norma Sterling Hallmark

Norma Sterling Hallmark
Pat Pend. and Sterling
Stuart Nye  
1933 Ashville NC - Handcrafted copper, brass and sterling. Stuart Nye became well known for his Dogwood flower design. Many of his designs are taken from nature. Mr. Nye is self taught. The company has a current website. The jewelry produced today is still handcrafted.  Back to top






Founders: Oreste Agnini and Ralph Singer ~ Chicago IL, USA ~ 1921 to Current- Their website states that they were the first costume jewelry company based in Chicago. The companies products have been seen in magazines. In addition to jewelry they also produced fraternal pins. In fact, they still do. The hallmark ORA was used for the first time in the 1940s.
 Jewelry is still being produced from the companies original molds. The jewelry then and now is high quality and high- end. Some have said that the jewelry looks like Bogoff jewelry. I agree with this statement. Others have said that the jewelry is undervalued.  Back to top


OTC International, LTD. Late 1970s- current. Retailer and wholesaler of jewelry, watches and giftware. Back to top

OTC Hallmark
Chicago, Il. Late 1930s- to the late 1990s. Manufactures and wholesalers of costume jewelry and accessories. Sold to other designers and jewelers as well as having their own line of costume jewelry. They had an association with DeLizza and Elster as well as Hollycraft. Rhinestone jewelry many in crystal color. Enamel pieces. See some pages from the 1955 Pakula catalog.    Back to top Pakula Hallmark
This is another company where information is scarce. It appears, from the look of the jewelry, that they were active in the 1950s.  Pieces we have seen are usually plastic, some with rhinestones. We have seen metal pieces set with rhinestones and a few figurals. All had a 1950s- 1960s look. Back to top

Founder (s): Beneditto Panetta along with his sons, Armand and Amedeo ~ 1945 New York, NY USA -Italian born Beneditto Panetta came to the United States in the early 1900s. In Italy he manufactured and sold fine jewelry. Panetta worked for Trifari and Pennino designing some of their costume jewelry. In 1945 along with his sons he began his own jewelry business where his background in fine jewelry certainly came into play. Panetta jewelry is extremely well made. His pieces are heavily rhodium or gold plated and often resemble the real thing. Sterling silver was also used. Also of note is the amount of detail that is seen in these pieces. Signature Designs: Pave set enamel jewelry, high quality rhinestones and elaborate settings. Rhodium, gold plated and sterling backings. Detailed workmanship.  Back to top

Providence RI USA Mid 1940s to al least the Mid 1950s - Florals with crystal centers. Back to top


Park Lane  
1955 - Still in business with current web site. Back to top

Park Lane Hallmark
Royal of Pittsburg ~ 1950s -? perhaps the 1980s. Have seen old ads dating to the 1950s. Known for colorful enamels. Back to top

A Pastelli Hallmark
Parrott Pearls  
1970s San Francisco, CA Candace Loheed, Bean Finneran. bright ceramic jewelry in bold styles. Some of the designers left during the 1980s to form Flying Colors. Remaining owners formed Ruby Z. Back to top

Parrot Pearls Hallmark

Erwin Pearl


Founder (s):  Erwin Pearl as Erwin Pearl Inc., 1952- Present [visit] Erwin Pearl was born in Vienna, Austria and came to the United States at the onset of WWII as so many Europeans did. He became a sought after diamond cutter with many wealthy clients. He soon opened his own fine jewelry firm and later began to produce costume jewelry. There is an Erwin Pearl shop on Newbury Street in Boston, MA! I love that store!! Techniques:  Styles range from classic to funky and fun.  Update: May 2008: I have seen Erwin Pearl now being sold on QVC. Back to top



Erwin Pearl Hallmark


Founder (s): Alfred, William, Anthony and Joseph Gaita as the Pell Jewelry Co. Long Island, NY 1941- present -The four above mentioned gents were brothers. From the beginning the brothers produced costume jewelry that was of good quality. Pavé set stones were used in many pieces. The Pell Jewelry Co. made jewelry for Disney, and beauty pageants.  Some of their tiaras are just stunning! The company is still in business and their newer pieces are being sold on QVC. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Figurals, pavé set stones, Christmas Trees.  Back to top



Founder (s): Oreste Pennino  along with his brothers Frank and Jack as the Pennino Jewelry Company ~ New York City, NY USA Late 1920s to mid 1960s - [Their father Pasquale actually opened a company earlier calling it the Pennino Jewelry Company.] The company founded by the brothers was in business for less than forty years. During this time they produced some of the prettiest costume jewelry you will see if you have a taste for the classics. Known for making high quality pieces with fabulous designs and a sophisticated look. Their jewelry was not produced in abundance making it hard to find on the market. There is some suspicion that not all of the jewelry was signed. The pieces marked "Pennino Sterling" command the highest prices. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Use of clear rhinestones of the highest quality, heavily plated settings, sterling.  Back to top

Additional Hallmarks:

Pennino in script, Pennino Pat  Pend and Pennino Sterling

1960s- perhaps the 1980s. There isn't a lot of information about this company. Produced antique look necklaces, bracelets, cameos and other brooches with surrounds. Back to top

Peri Hallmark
Pitman and Keeler  
Attleboro, MA Back to top

Pitman and Keeler Hallmark

Pitman and Keeler GF Stamping

Marks found on cufflinks from the Art Deco era.
Providence Stock Company  
Providence RI, 1890s to the 1950s. Mark to the right was found on a 1940s sterling vermeil piece . Back to top

Providence Stock Company Hallmark
Christopher Radko  
New York. besides Christmas pins Radko is known for ornaments. Some of the ornaments are sold at high end stores such as Nieman Marcus. The company has been in business for over 20 years. Pieces are often found marked only by an attached hang- tag or a presentation card. They pride themselves in retiring pieces each year to enhance their collectability. Have current website.   Back to top

Christopher Radko Hallmark
Pauline Rader  

Founder (s): Pauline Rader 1962- It is thought that her company closed in the 1980s. While in business Pauline Rader produced a limited amount of costume jewelry, usually for special clients. Some of her jewelry was sold in boutiques. Her design style was towards the larger heavily plated pieces. Pauline Rader jewelry is rare. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Large gothic looking pieces, pieces with a Classical influence, Russian gold plating, pave set stones, glass beads and interesting stones. Unique jewelry.  Back to top

L. Razza  
Founder (s): Luca Razza [I have seen his first name also spelled Luka and Luke] 1950s. Still in business in Rhode Island, USA. Known for figurals, zodiac pieces and plastic that is used along with metal. This company developed a plastic that mimics ivory during the 1960s- 1970s time frame. Back to top


Reed and Barton  
Henry Reed Family privately owned. Taunton MA 1824. Most known for sterling silver tableware and giftware. During the Civil War this company produced some weapons for the Union Army. In 1996 they produced the medals for the Atlanta Summer Olympics. Reed and Barton is also the choice of the White House, or at least was. In 1974 the company produced a series of damascene jewelry. Have current website. Back to top  

Founder (s): Regina Novelty Company New York, NY 1950s - 1970s- Information regarding this company is scarce. The costume jewelry is always well made with high quality and unique rhinestones. It was marketed directly to department stores in large cities. Regency costume jewelry was not always signed with the copyright symbol. Many brooch and earring sets have only the brooch signed. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Multi- colored rhinestones, beautiful combinations. Frosted stones.  Colorful butterfly pins. Back to top





Regency Hallmark

Founders: 1920s- 1950s?  Reinad Novelty Company ~ New York, NY- This is another company with an interesting history. It seems that during the 1940s they produced a line of costume jewelry with the mark "Chanel Novelty Company".  The jewelry was marked Chanel in script. Well, they were not associated with Coco Chanel and as you might expect, she or her company did not like the use of the name "Chanel Novelty Company." Jewelry marked "Chanel" in script was only made during 1941. It is very rare. This company is said to have produced jewelry for other companies. Perhaps that is why there is a near identical "Oriental Princess" pin/clip like theirs signed Hattie Carnegie on the market. Or perhaps they copied the Carnegie pin. I don't know for certain, but I love them both!  Many costume jewelry books say to buy any Reinad jewelry you come across! Signature Designs:  High quality materials. I have seen several "face" jewels with this companies mark. Back to top

Reis Company  
Indianapolis Indiana 1950 - 1977.  Hallmark is often said to be an early Coro hallmark. We feel this is in error. Back to top

CR Co Hallmark
Oscar de la Renta  
Born in the Dominican Republic and also a citizen of the USA. Couture fashion designer. Back to top

Oscar de la Renta Hang Tag

Oscar de la Renta Metal Hang Tag

Oscar de la Renta Hallmark
Founder/Owner: Joseph H. Meyer and brothers- New York, NY USA - Early 1900s to early 2000s. Best known for faux pearl jewelry. Richelieu mark was first used n 1911, however not all of it was signed until the 1950s. The company also used other hallmarks and trademarks. Back to top 
 Joan Rivers  
1990 - Joan Rivers has done it all. She is a comedian, she hosts talk shows,  she writes books and she has even appeared on Broadway! Her sense of high style translates well to her jewelry. Her QVC page states t hat she always insists on on having high quality material used in her pieces. Back to top

Joan Rivers Hallmark

Nettie Rosenstein


Founder (s): Nettie Rosenstein Early twentieth century- 1975 -Austrian born Nettie Rosenstein was another fashion designer turned jewelry designer. After working out of her own brownstone, that rapidly became crowded, she opened her first business in New York selling woman's clothing in the early 1920s. In the early 1930s after a brief retirement she opened a fashion house selling clothing and accessories including jewelry. Her first big client was I, Magnin in the early 1920s. Bonwit Tellers owned exclusive rights to her label at one time. Rosenstein jewelry is of very good quality and imaginative. The signed sterling pieces and the heraldic pieces are the most sought after. Signature  Designs/Techniques:   Large and small figurals, enamel, quality rhinestones, heraldic motifs, sterling pieces.  Back to top

Original by Robert  
Founder (s): Robert Levy along with David Jaffe and Irving Landsman as the Fashioncraft  Jewelry Company, New York ~ 1942. When Landsman left the company the name was changed to Original by Robert. When Robert Levy retired and the daughter of Jaffe [Ellen] took over, the name was changed twice more. First to Ellen Designs for Robert Originals and then again to Ellen Designs during the early 1980s.  The company is known for jewelry that looks like Miriam Haskell beaded work and enamel jewelry, mainly large colorful flower pins. Produced collectable Christmas tree pins.  Back to top







Founded in the early 1970s in St. Louis MO by Melvin Roman. We believe they are still in business. Have pieces that use rhinestones and enamel. Back to top

Roman Hallmark

Roman Hallmark
Robyn Rush  
Florida. Contemporary designer. Rhinestone pieces appear to be influenced by vintage designs. Some look like D&E. Back to top     
Ruby Z
California. When the San Francisco company Parrott Pearls dissolved the owners that did not go on to found Flying Colors founded this company. Makers of ceramic jewelry. Back to top  

Founder (s): New York City, NY ~ 1925 - about 1965 as H. M. Schrager and Co. -There is not a lot of information about this company. The costume jewelry produced by this company was extremely well made with the highest quality materials. From 1925 to 1959 the hallmarks "House of Schrager", "Schrager", and "House of Schrager" were used.  After 1959 the costume jewelry was marked "Jonne" or on a paper hang tag "Jonne" on one side and "House of Schrager" on the other side. The jewelry produced by this company is a rare find. Signature Designs: High quality rhinestones, beautiful bead work like that of Haskell, pearls and poured glass. Back to top





Owner/Founder: Henry Schreiner 1939?- 1970s New York City- In 1923 Henry Schreiner came to the USA from Germany. He was a blacksmith by trade.  Henry arrived in New York and found a job at a buckle company making shoe buckles. He learned a lot about the fashion industry on the job and this training served him well. Designed jewelry for others such as Dior. Models wore his costume jewelry on the catwalks. Schreiner jewelry is not all signed. The jewelry he made for retail was, however the jewelry created for his other clientele was not. The company never mass produced jewelry. His daughter joined the company in the early fifties and after Henry died she continued the fine design work until the firm closed in the 1970s. The ruffle brooch is in great demand. Signature Designs: Paste stones, German and Czechoslovakian stones, inverted stones, unusual rhinestone combinations, keystone cut rhinestones, hook and eye construction, unusual settings, triangular prongs and extravagant designs. The inverted stones are set with the point of the rhinestone facing up and the flat table facing down. This was said to pick up the color of the garment it was placed against and to produce extra sparkle. Back to top

Other hallmarks: Schreiner, Schreiner NY

Costume Jewelry: Late 1950s- 1965  New York- Arnold Scaasi was born in Montreal, Canada as Arnold Isaacs in 1931. He studied fashion design in Montreal and spent some time in Paris, France. He is probably better known as the designer to such prominent ladies as Laura and Barbara Bush, Jackie Kennedy, Ivana Trump, Liz Taylor, Joan Rivers and of he designed the outfit that the illustrious Barbra Streisand wore to the 43rd Annual Academy Awards in 1969. For the short period noted above Scaasi began producing well made costume jewelry.  The jewelry was used to coordinate with his clothing lines. In 1965 Scaasi factory turned over to Kenneth Lane. Scaasi costume jewelry is not easy to find. He is a frequent speaker at the Fashion institute of Technology in New York City, NY.

Update: June 1, 2009: I have noticed that Arnold Scaasi has designed a line for the rest of us that is now selling on HSN. The jewelry is still made with natural gemstones

Signature Designs/Techniques: 
Eccentric yet tasteful designs. Quality materials and use of semi precious and some precious stones. Attention to the smallest detail. Back to top
Bill Schiffer  
If you are familiar with the mural "West Broadway Boogie" found in the SOHO section of New York City, you know his work. He is not only an artist, he is also a sculptor and jewelry designer. His jewelry designs sold at better department stores and some were chosen to be shown in the Jewels of Fantasy museum tour. His Art-to Wear has also graced models on the runway and many fashion magazines. His jewelry is all hand crafted and it is highly regarded in both the fashion and art worlds. Back to top Bill Schiffer Hallmark
Eugene Schultz  

Founder (s): Eugene Schultz as the Eugene Jewelry Company ~ 1950s to the 1960s- The dates listed above are a best guess and it is thought the company was based in New York City, NY, USA. The story used to go something like, Eugene was a designer for Miriam Haskell prior to opening his own company. According to the book Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff, he did not work for Haskell. After his death, the book states, that Eugene's sample maker joined Haskell. Rumors are hard to quell once they get started. Eugene did indeed have his own company. Eugene used similar techniques as Haskell, DeMario and Robert so naturally the jewelry would be similar. His company was not in operation for very long and subsequently did not manufacture a lot of costume jewelry. This jewelry is not easy to find and can be costly. Many pieces are not marked. Techniques:  Beaded and pearl jewelry of high quality. Fancy clasps. Wired beads to filigree backings. Back to top


Founder (s): It is now known that the founder of Selro Corporation, Paul Selenger, also founded Selini. 1950s - 1960s ~ New York City -Up until recently the connection between the two mentioned companies was the stuff of chat groups and collectable costume jewelry forums. Much of the jewelry was similar in construction and in the use of materials. Some were of the very same subjects or had the exact same motifs. To complicate matters, some of the Selini as well as the Selro jewelry pieces were not signed and instead used paper hang tags to identify the maker. Somewhere along the line it was noticed that some of the jewelry had both names, Selro and Selini stamped on them. Eureka! Signature Designs/Techniques:  High quality, elaborate bracelets, vibrant colors. Back to top

also "A Selini Original" on a paper hang tag.

Founder (s): It is now known that the founder of Selini, Paul Selenger, also founded Selro Corporation.  New York City ~ Selro jewelry is highly collectable, especially the face jewelry. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Artistic looking rhinestone jewelry, face jewelry, outstanding stones and use of stones. Back to top

Selro Hallmark
Adele Simpson  
Founder (s): Adele Simpson -1940s and 1950s-Like Chanel and Schiaparelli, Adele Simpson was a high fashion clothing designer. She started producing costume jewelry to compliment the outfits she designed. She did not produce that much jewelry and even at the time it was quite pricey making finds rare. Signature Designs: Quality! I have often read and noticed myself that vintage Adele Simpson jewelry looks just as good on the reverse as it does on the front. This costume jewelry is rare and a great find.  Back to top

Founder (s): Victor Sorrentino - Providence RI ~ 1911-When founded this costume jewelry company was named after Victor Sorrentino. In the early 1920s, the name was changed to Uncas Manufacturing Company. Sorrento is one of the trademarks used by this company. It is believed the mark was used beginning sometime in 1950s. Uncas was also used as a hallmark. Signature Designs: Sterling silver and gold plated jewelry. Back to top






Sorrento Hallmark

Stamas Sterling  
Steve Stamas - Has current web site. Back to top

Stamos Sterling Hallmark
Donald Stannard  
1972-2000-  Prior to opening his own company Donald Stannard was an assistant to Kenneth J. Lane (1968- 1972). His work could be found on starlets including Dixie Carter and Ginger Rogers. He designed pieces for Broadway shows, daytime soap operas, Dynasty and Hollywood movies. He has been referred to as one of America's great designers at important auction houses.  I have read that he now produces pieces for private clients.  Back to top Donald Stannard Hallmark

Founder (s): The information about this company is limited. I have read that this is the same company as the Star Novelty Company of Chicago. Star Novelty Company used the mark Staret. I can find no reference to this company [Star] being associated with the Star Novelty Company/Staret. Costume jewelry with the mark "STAR" is of average quality with some of the rhinestone jewelry being better. The jewelry was most likely made between 1940 and the 1960s. Signature Designs: Thermoplastic jewelry, rhinestone jewelry and figural jewelry. Back to top

Star Art  
Makers of delicate gold- filled and sterling silver jewelry. The pieces I have seen are decorated with small rhinestones. No additional information is available.  Back to top

Star Art Hallmark

Founder (s): Star Novelty Company Chicago IL, USA ~ Most Likely 1935 - 1947 In 1941 the name Staret was registered  in the Jewelry Board of Trade Directory and used until 1947 according to Brunialti A Tribute to America  page 41. -I do not believe this is the same company that produced jewelry using the mark STAR. The Star Novelty Company, using the mark Staret, produced some of the finest costume jewelry during the 1940s. Notice that the company was based in Chicago just as Eisenberg so I suppose there was bound to be a comparison between the two. It just so happens that this time the comparison is justified. This company produced high- end costume jewelry in premium settings such as rhodium with the highest quality rhinestones. Some of their patriotic designs include the famous Liberty Torch from 1942 and the Remember Pearl Harbor pin from the same year. The torch pin is often reproduced and sold on eBay as the real thing! This company was also well known for figural jewelry. Not all of their pieces were signed and it is believed that some of the pieces might have been produced for Staret by another manufacturer. Their jewelry is considered rare. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Figurals, patriotic jewelry, quality, colorful rhinestones and floral brooches. Back to top

St. John  
Irvine , CA. Founded in 1962 by a former model Marie Gray and her husband Robert. Their daughter Kelly was their first spokes model. Karen Elson, Angelina Jolie and Gisele Bundchen have also had this role. The company is well know for knit clothing sold in finer department stores. They also produce perfume,  jewelry and accessories. They have a current website. Back to top St. John Hallmark
St. Labre  
Company began by New Yorkers on a Cheyenne Indian Reservation in Montana. Mid 1960s to the Mid 1970s. Back to top
St Labre Hallmark
Jay Strongwater  
Jay Feinberg Fashion Jewelry - Later, during the late 1980s, this first company was dissolved and name changed to John Strongwater. The company re- launched during 1990. Depending on how you look at things high end jewelry designer Jay Strongwater either began his career when he designed a necklace for his mother in 1981 that was admired by a local shop owner or when he dropped out of the Rhode Island School of Design to begin his own business in 1982 in New Jersey. Oh, I should add that in between he already sold his designs to Henri Bendel and Saks Fifth Avenue.  He designed jewelry for Oscar de la Renta in 1983 which gave him even more exposure. Known for using high quality material, elaborate picture frames. Oprah Winfrey gave one to David Letterman when she appeared on his show for the first time. He is also known for boxes and vanity items that are elaborately decorated.  Has current website.  Back to top Jay Strongwater Hallmark
Sweet Romance  
California 1980s. This brand is produced by Shelly Copper who was a historian and an artist. She blends the two when she designs her jewels. Her pieces are designed to reflect eras such as her Victorian look pieces. She has famous clients and her pieces are used in the  wardrobe department at NBC television and Paramount Pictures.  Many of the pieces are made with  crystals and ornate findings. She also sells accessories. Has current website.  Back to top

Sweet Romance Hallmark

Founder (s): Edward Swoboda, Los Angeles CA, USA ~ 1955/1956 - the 1980s- Edward Swoboda knew a thing or two about gemstones. He used his knowledge to create jewelry usually in gold plated metal set with genuine gemstones such as jade, coral, opals and peridot. Some of their costume jewelry was set with cultured pearls. His jewelry became a favorite of the Hollywood scene and Nancy Regan commissioned one of the companies cypress tree pins when her husband was governor of California in 1966. In 1957 Nate Waxman joins the company. He ran the company after Edward retired.  When Swoboda closed Nate went on to sell jewelry on the internet. By the 1960s Swoboda had three showrooms. The jewelry was not marked until 1966. The gorgeous designs sold at most of the better department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue. Some of their popular pieces have been re-issued recently. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Costume jewelry with gemstones. Oriental looks and Victorian looks as well. Back to top

Founder (s) Sommers and Sherman. There is not a lot of information about this company. Jewelry by them that we have seen have been marked pat pending for patent pending. This leads us to believe they were in business prior to 1955.  Back to top

Symphony Hallmark
This mark appears to have been used by several unrelated companies. One of the companies, out of New York City, had some of their jewelry produced by DeLizza & Elster. Two of the hallmarks are to the right. There are others!  Back to top




Mystery Mark - San Francisco, CA??  Back to top

TAT Hallmark
New Jersey- Contemporary. We have seen several themed slide charm bracelets with this hallmark.  Back to top

Tofa Hallmark
Founder (s): Frank Tortolani 1950s. California. The company is still in business producing a wide range of items including: letter openers, key chains and lapel pins. The company is now being run by family members.  They have also re-issued some of their older designs using original molds. Francisco's father was a jewelry maker in Italy. Frank studied jewelry design there before coming to the USA. After WWII he made the dream come true. All of the jewelry is hand cast, polished and finished. Most of the pieces are in silver colored metal although some is gold tone and I have seen a few enamel pieces. A few even have rhinestones. The zodiac pieces are highly sought after by today's collectors.  The newer pieces have a different hallmark. The first hallmark to the right is an older one.  It has no copyright symbol. The pieces with the copyright before the name are newer than those with this hallmark, but not the newest. The second image has the copyright before the name. Pieces with the copyright after the name are much newer. Back to top

HISTORY- Founded by Gustavo Trifari as Trifari and Trifari in 1910. The second Trifari was his uncle. The two parted ways a few years later and the company became known as just Trifari. In 1917 Leo Krussman (a competitor's sales person) joined and the company became Trifari and Krussman in 1918. In 1925 Carl Fishel joined the costume jewelry company as a salesperson and the company became known as Trifari, Krusmman and Fishel. The genius Alfred Philippe joins as chief designer in 1930. The company had become a bit sluggish and he is credited with bringing it back to life with innovative jewelry designs. The company expanded to become the second largest costume jewelry manufacturer next to Coro and their jewelry became very sought after. The hallmark "KTF" was first used in 1935. In 1939 the hallmark Trifari with the crown over the "T" was first used on metal. Many patents were issued to Alfred Philippe. There has been discussion lately as to whether he designed all of the pieces with his name on the patent or if he acted as representative for the company in some cases. I do not know the definitive answer to this question. There were many designers who worked for Trifari and many hallmarks. In the future I will place many of these on this page. There have been several ownership changes as well. Trifari became part of the Monet Group purchased by Liz Claiborne in 2000. Now located in Puerto Rico. Materials and techniques included: Hand set Swarovski rhinestones, molded glass (fruit salads], Lucite (jelly bellies), sterling silver, gold plating and more! Back to top














Trifari Hallmark

This is a 1970s-1980s hallmark and was found on a necklace with the hallmark below.

One of many Trifari Designers - Kunio Matsumo

Uncas Manufacturing Company  
1911 - ?. Vincent Sorrentino - Providence RI- I believe they are still in business. They had many trademarks including "Sorrento" which appeared in 1951. The company when founded in Vincent's name and become Uncas manufacturing company in the early 1920s. The hallmark Uncas appeared in 1959.  They produced gold- filled jewelry, rhinestone pieces, sterling pieces and rings. Back to top   
Unger Brothers  

Founder (s):  Herman Unger as Unger Bros. 1872 - 1814 ~ Newark NJ, USA-Originally from Germany, the family came to the United States in 1849. Herman Unger, the eldest of five sons began a jewelry business around 1872. In roughly 1878 sterling silver pieces were produced. All five sons eventually joined the business. Three of the brothers died, leaving Herman and brother Eugene to continue running the company. Unger Bros. went on to become the leading manufacturer of Art Nouveau sterling silver pieces in the United States. The became known for their impressive and creative dresser and desk sets as well as hatpin holders and smoking items. Some of their most collectable items are the unusually shaped and those that are decorated with female or American Indian motifs.  Some of their pieces were named. Some of the outdated molds and dies were sold to other companies. Pieces made with these molds were usually unmarked. Techniques/materials:  Sterling silver items with Art Nouveau designs such as woman with flowing hair. Cherubs and animal motifs as well as floral and foliate motifs. Heavy chasing. Back to top 

This mark was in use until 1910.


  Valenza Hallmark
Ann Vien  
Atlanta Georgia, USA - Not a lot is known about Ann Vien. Jewelry is rare and usually very well made. Back to top Ann Vien Hallmark
Founder/Owner: The threesome of Jack Gilbert, George Grand [I have seen at least one reference where this name was spelled Grant] and Harold Shapiro who was the son of Les Bernard founder, Bernard Shapiro. At least 1936 - the mid 1970s. Once once thought to be the best costume jewelry company around. Techniques/materials: Most known for crystal and beaded jewelry.  Back to top 


Vogue Hallmark

Larry Vrba

Founder/Owner: Lawrence Vrba - Larry Vrba began his work at Miriam Haskell in the late 1960s. He left for a while and returned in 1970. he became the chief designer and created some very unforgettable lines, notably the "Egyptian" collection.  Larry left Haskell in 1978 to begin his own company. He was soon designing costume jewelry for stage and private customers.  His costume jewelry is large and bold. I have a theory that the scale relates to the fact that stage jewelry needs to be seen from all parts of the auditorium. Just a thought! His costume jewelry was only produced in limited quantities. Materials and techniques included: High quality materials, handmade jewelry. pewter and gunmetal backings. Oversized costume jewelry.  Back to top 

Larry Vrba Hallmark
Vera Wang  
New York - Former figure skater and once senior fashion editor at Vogue magazine . Her high end bridal shop opened in 1990 at a hotel. Although she may be best known for her bridal line, she does create ready to wear fashion, perfume and jewelry. She has created wedding attire for many starlets including Kate Hudson and Jennifer Lopez.  She has also produced fashion for the home. Her "Lavender Line" is her edgy street chic line of clothing and accessories and it sells/sold at better high- end department stores.  Ms. Wang also produced a line called "Simply Vera" exclusively for Kohl's Department stores in 2007. Back to top
Early 1950s- early 1970s. Exceptional construction and materials. Jewelry often compared to Weiss. Back to top 
Rice- Weiner  
1938- Rhode Island, USA- Prior to this date the company was called New England Glassworks which was founded in 1911. This was only one of the companies name changes. In 1946 the company split and two of the owners began a company using the hallmark Barclay. Another company was formed and the hallmarks were Jeray and American Beauty Pearls. Rice - Weiner produced and or stocked jewelry for/by McClelland Barclay and Alexander Korda. They also produced jewelry using the Rice- Weiner mark. Back to top   
Wells Inc.  
Found on small charm. Back to top

Wells Inc Hallmark
Owner Albert Weiss 1942-1971 - The company was founded in New York City.  At first very underrated, this firm became trend setting and the prices for their costume jewelry began to steadily rise. Their output was small compared to Trifari and Coro. I have seen their work compared to that of Eisenberg. Probably because the company did not produce their own jewelry. It was "jobbed" out to firms such as D&E, just like Eisenberg. Weiss was one of the first to have jewelry made using high quality Austrian rhinestones. In 1960 Albert retired and his son Michael took over. The company closed it's doors in 1971. Albert Weiss worked at Coro in the 1930s. Materials and techniques included: Known for their figurals, especially rhinestone encrusted butterflies and insects.  These are the items most coveted by avid collectors. Also of interest to collectors are the "black diamonds" also known as the "gray rhinestone" or smoke rhinestone pieces. Some of their other designs included floral, fruit, and some Deco pieces.  Gold and silver metal was enameled or Japanned. Keep in mind that there is an enormous amount of FAKE Weiss jewelry items on the market.  The fakes are reproduced in the USA and elsewhere and they are sold as authentic.   What can you do when shopping for Weiss? Look at the BACKS! Most, if not all new/fake/repro Weiss items will have a textured back.  Most if not all will have glued in stones. Usually the clear rhinestone jewelry was not reproduced. Finding a piece with glued in stones does not mean it is a fake. It was easier to fake pieces with glued in stones so look for other clues. Back to top 










JJ White

Most repros have textured backs like this.

Backs of above earrings shows what authentic Weiss looks like


Known for outstanding filigree bracelets. Many patented during the 1930s. Back to top  JJ WhHite Hallmark
Whiting & Davis  
Plainville, MA. Well known maker of mesh handbags. Produced jewelry with lovely metalwork, big cameo pieces, mesh pieces and rhinestone items. The whiting and Davis hallmark was first used in 1926. In 1980 the mesh jewelry items were dropped. In the early 1990s they ceased all jewelry production. Back to top  Whiting and Davis Hallmark
Joseph Wiesner N.Y.  
It is believed that this company produced costume jewelry during the early 1950s timeframe. There is another company with the hallmark Wiesner that operated out of Florida. The jewelry is usually well made with above average materials. Much of it is rhodium plated. Back to top 

Joseph Wiesner Hallmark



Allan Adler  
Los Angeles California - Created all hand made silver pieces including jewelry. Mr. Adler passed away in 2002; however there is still a website [] with additional information about this often called "silversmith to the stars". During his long career he won awards, designed mini Oscars awards for the winners, crowns for beauty contestants and one of his most famous pieces, a Paul Revere inspired teapot sold for close to one million dollars at Sotheby's according to the above mentioned website. His famous clients include: Katherine Hepburn, Michael Jackson and Frank Sinatra and that is just to name a few. Mr. Adler was also commissioned to create a piece for John F Kennedy. His work was produced using the old Arts and Crafts methods. Back to top

Gret Barkin  
Gret and her husband Rube Barkin, New Hope, PA 1940s- late 1990s. I have placed this maker in the modernist category because the style of the jewelry is modernist and it was hand made.  Worked in copper and sterling. Their shop was named Gret Barkin which I have read meant Great Bargain. After her husband died it is said that Ms. Barkin moved the studio to her basement where she continued to produced jewelry until her recent 2007 passing. Back to top

Gret Barkin Hallmark

Gret Barkin Hallmark
Jules Brenner  
New York. Mr. Brenner also produced copper and brass objects as well as jewelry in Provincetown while working for Ed Wiener. He also studied under Ed Wiener. His early work was more in the constructivist style. His later work are considered to be more surrealistic and biomorphic. His pieces were either limited production or one of a kind. Back to top Jules Brenner Hallmark
Irena Bryner, Irena Brynner  
San Francisco, Ca, USA. Russian born. Immigrated to San Francisco in 1946. Lived in China and studied Art is Switzerland prior. She was one of the organizers of the First San Francisco Art Festivals along with Margaret De Patta and Peter Macchiarini . Her work can be found in many materials including gold. She was also a sculptor and author,  Her early work is marked with her last name spelled as Bryner. She later changed it to Brynner. Her work is highly regarded.  Back to top 
Irena Bryner Hallmark
Irvin and Bonnie Burkee- Colorado.  During the late 1940s this husband and wife team established a studio where they created on of a kind pieces and also some limited production pieces. They work with sterling, wood, gold, stone, ivory and bone.   Back to top 
Virgil Cantini  
Italian born. Designed many sculptures for buildings in Pittsburgh PA, USA. He has received many awards for his work. He is also known for his stunning enamel on copper jewelry. He is also a professor emeritus of Fine Arts at the University of Pittsburgh.  Back to top Virgil Cantini Hallmark 
Betty Cooke  

Baltimore, MD -Betty Cooke is a skilled artist and an alum of the Maryland Institute College of Art where she received her Bachelor or Arts degree.  While studying she also found the time to apprentice with a jeweler in the area. She taught jewelry making at the Institute for at least two decades. Bette Cooke also ran a showroom in Baltimore, Maryland where the shopper could find her creations as well as those of some of her contemporaries. I believe it is still in operation.  Her jewelry was/is also sold in a select few stores. She has been the recipient of the DeBeers Diamond Today Award twice. Once in 1979 and again in 1981. She has worked with fashion designer Geoffrey Beene. Her designs are sculptural, geometric and well crafted. Like most studio or modern wearable art it is not fussy. She works in silver and other metals.  The prices for her jewelry has been on a steady climb upward. Back to top

Hallmark: COOKE and STERLING underneath
Victoria Flemming  
Born Victoria Hansen she was originally from New Jersey,  where she worked at a company under glazing pottery, Ms. Flemming moved to New York where she continued to learn about and work with pottery. At first, she produced brooches and earrings. Adding cufflinks after her second husband was able to secure a source for the findings. After moving to New Orleans with her second husband the marriage ended. Victoria stayed.  She produced her pieces where ever she could including the back of a bar. Eventually she dropped brooches and earrings to concentrate on her hand painted cufflinks. By 1970 she was not painting porcelain  and in 2004 she passed away.  Back to top Victoria Flemming Hallmark
Elsa Freund  
Born in Missouri in 1912 and moved to Florida in 1949 with her husband who was a WPA Painter when she met him. Together they opened an art school. They were both resident artists at the Stetson University in Deland, Florida. Elsa soon began to experiment with mixed materials. She used broken window glass or broken colored glass and clay fired together. This technique was eventually named Elseramic. She would wrap the newly made stones in sterling wire, copper and other materials. She wore her pieces and soon found some shops in Florida to sell it. Soon shops in Colorado and New York also began to sell her creations.   During the 1950s she was a major player within the modernist artist community and her work is on permanent display at several museums in New York, Boston, Los Angeles, London and Montreal.   Back to top Elsa Freund Hallmark
Robert Gardner
Instructor at the Carnegie Institute of Technology in Pittsburgh, PA. Studied art in Indianapolis and Michigan. Took part in the 1955 Walter exhibit in Minnesota. Worked in sterling silver with semi precious stones. Back to top

Phyllis Jacobs  
Jeweler and sculptor. trained at the Minneapolis School of Art. According to Marbeth Schon, another jeweler uses a similar hallmark. See her book Modernist Jewelry, page 104. I have seen some sterling and rhinestone pieces with a "Phyllis" hallmark. That "Phyllis" is thought to be the M&S Manufacturing Company. I am not sure if this is the other "Phyllis" to which Marbeth was referencing. Back to top Phyllis Hallmark
Sam Kramer  

New York, NY -Greenwich Village must have been a cool place to live during the late thirties and onward into the 1960s. Sam Kramer was one of many "artist" jewelers that had studios there creating fabulous expressionistic jewelry. While Sam did take some jewelry making and gemology classes he was a journalist by training. After working a while at a newspaper he went to work for a jewelry store. He moved to New York during the 1950s where he opened his first studio. His jewelry shows his surrealist eccentricities. He was a groundbreaker, tearing down the notions of what jewelry was and how it was perceived. Jewelry as art!  His pieces command a high price. Known for surrealist designs, layering, multilevel design and assemblage. Mixed materials, sometimes used stones as decoration.  Sam Kramer passed away in 1964. Back to top


Ed Levin

Sam Kramer Hallmark

New York and Florida. Teacher, sculptor, inventor. Born in New York in 1921. Studied fine arts at Columbia. Founded Ed Levin Jewelry in 1950 along with his wife Ruth. Sadly, Mr. Levin passed away 2/23/2008.  There is a current website. Back to top Ed Levin Hallmark
Esther Lewittes  

California, USA -When I think of Modern Studio Jewelry I usually think of Greenwich Village New York. The west coast did have a thriving scene with several silver artists including Margaret De Patta and Esther Lewittes. Lewittes handcrafted silver items are often decorated with cultured pearls. She also works in mixed materials such as silver and wood or even glass.  As with many Modernists, her lines are geometric, but to me not as severe as some of her contemporaries.  Back to top



Paul Lobel


It is impossible to discuss American Studio Modernist artists without mentioning Paul Lobel.  He was after all one of the pioneers of the art form. Picture the scene: Greenwich Village, New York, late 1930s into the 1940s. Artists and poets along with those that aspire to be all congregating in the same area. Everywhere you turned you would see new fashions, jewelry, paintings, sculptures unlike anything preceding.  Lobel, originally from Romania was part of this scene. He was not only a jewelry artist, he was a painter and a sculptor with a background in design. Lobel worked not only with silver but with glass, bronze, steel, wood and later even plastic.  It seems that during WWII with the restrictions on other materials, Lobel worked mostly with silver as did so many during this time frame. During the mid 1940s, Paul Lobel opened his studio. Paul Lobel passed away in 1983. Signature Designs:  Simple sleek designs. Flowers, animals.  Silver and many other materials. Back to top



Nita Lustig  





Founder (s): Otto Robert Babe 1960s -Otto Robert Babe was the plant manager for the modernist jewelry artist Rebajes from the early 1940s to around 1958. As such he was responsible for getting the Rebajes pieces that were now being produced by several people using the Rebajes designs at a factory. Otto Babe and Frank Rebajes came up with the assembly-line method to keep production on schedule. When Rebajes retired from the company he founded in the 1960s, Otto Babe bought the Rebajes  catalog of designs and machinery. He continued to produce jewelry using the designs. Signature Designs: Sterling silver jewelry in the style of Rebajes.  Back to top


Founder (s):  Francisco [Frank] Rebajes - New York City, NY, USA ~ 1932- 1967 [Spain ~ 1967-1990] -Rebajes probably didn't think so, but he was destined for greatness. He wound up in Greenwich Village, New York, the right place and at the right time, the 1920s. The Village of the 1920s was the bastion of the intellectuals, the think outside the box types. Poets and artists, writers all bursting with then revolutionary ideas. I have read that Rebajes was born in Spain. I think this is false. I believe he spent some time in Spain during his childhood.  Francisco was born in the Dominican Republic and arrived in America in the early 1920s. He did not have a lot of cash and he had even less prospects so he did odd jobs. After his marriage in the early 1930s he began to sculpt. Rebajes was able to sell some of these sculptures which allowed him to open a shop selling similar items and jewelry around 1932. He had a great imagination and was extremely creative. Both traits show in his jewelry. He was self-taught, so unlike some of the "trained" artist's his own mind was his guide. His work was bold and commanded attention. He developed a loyal following and Francisco soon found himself as one of the leading artists in Modernist jewelry. A larger shop was opened. He opened several more each larger than the prior. Soon he opened a retail shop on Fifth Avenue around 1942. Rebajes made his jewelry with a finish that was more natural as opposed to shiny like that of Matisse/Renoir. He also worked in silver. His sterling pieces are highly sought after. Francisco relocated to Spain along with his wife in the late 1950s - early 1960s. He went to Spain it is said, to tone his life down a bit. He continued to sculpt and create jewelry there until his death in 1990. Before leaving, he sold all of his equipment and designs to his longtime foreman Otto Bade. Techniques/materials:  Powerful copper and some sterling pieces. Ethnic pieces. Warm copper finish. UPDATE: 3/21/2010- It has come to our attention that the rights to the Rebajes name has been sold and some of Rebajes/Bade jewelry will once again be produced. All of the pieces we have for sale were purchased prior to the opening of this new site:   Back to top

Rebajes Hallmark




Caroline Gleick Rosene  
Had her work included in the Walker Art Center exhibit in 1948. Ms. Rosene studied art in New York, Paris, Hawaii, San Francisco and Cambridge, MA. She was also the director at The Art Center in Fitchburg, MA.. Irena Bryner studied under Caroline Rosene during the late 1940s and into the early 1950s.  Back to top Caroline Gleick Rosene Hallmark
Art Smith  
New York. Born in Cuba in 1917. He was of Jamaican heritage.  When he was very young he liked to draw more than most children his age.  He was encouraged by his mother and sister. None of his other family members of friends thought it wise of him to think he could become an artist.  There were very few art schools that encouraged blacks at that time and Smith was not from a wealthy family.  Art found about an art school called the Copper Union. He achieved a scholarship to attend the school. While working part time at the Children's Aid Society in Harlem, he met an art teacher named Winifred Mason who was making jewelry.  He worked with her four about four years at a shop in Greenwich Village, NY. In 1948 Smith opened his permanent studio. He worked in brass and copper as well as sterling silver, some with stones. His pieces are primitive and biomorphic. He hand produced every element right down to the connectors and other findings. Smith designed pieces for many dance troupes. These were usually oversized pieces. He is one of the most highly regarded artists of his time. His shop closed in 1979 and he passed away in 1982.
Read From the Village to Vogue Article     Back to top
Art Smith Hallmark
Henry Steig  
1950s to 1970s New York and Provincetown Mass on Cape Cod. Constructivist.  Although trained in art and sculpture, he was mostly self taught as a silversmith. Back to top




Steig Hallmark

  Europeen and Other Designers

David Andersen  

Founder (s): David Andersen, Oslo, Norway in 1876. -The founder died in 1901. At that time his son Arthur Andersen took over the helm. Several family members joined the retailer and manufacturer of silver jewelry plus other items throughout the years. Several well known Norwegian designers worked for the company. The designers names are not always found on the finished piece. The well known enameled pieces began being produced in the early part of the twentieth century. Signature Designs: Sterling leaf designs with colored enamel. Back to top












David Andersen Mark with Designer/Artist Willie Winnaess


David Andersen Mark with Designer/ Artist Karl Jorgen Otteren

Ostern for David Andersen Hallmark

David Andersen with Designer/Artist Bjorn Sigurd Ostern - active 1961- 1985

Robert Arthur  
Glasgow, Scotland

Robert Arthur Hallmark
Austria Hallmark
Jakob Bengel  
Founder/Owner: Jakob Bengel 1873 Idar- Oberstein, Germany ~ Watch Chain Manufacturing - German Art Deco at it's absolute best. It is very difficult to believe that at one time this company was obscure. The pieces were unsigned and if not for a chance discovery of a sample book we may not have ever known who created this fabulous German Art Deco costume jewelry. Jakob Bengal is now being hailed and deservedly so, as the “pioneer of Art Deco jewelry design”.  Add to that the introduction of the forerunner to Bakelite; Galalith and the “remove the barriers”, “form follows function Bauhaus style. Bauhaus was an art movement in Germany that had its heyday around the same period as Art Deco. The principles are the similar in that both movements sprouted in a period of confluence of social, political, educational and artistic change and upheaval.  In additional there was a tiring of the flourished style that proceeded as it relates to the upheavals.  Art Deco is really a design style within Bauhaus.  It celebrated the Machine Age.  Signature Designs: Galalith, chrome, geometric designs. Colorful collar necklaces, brass and nickel. Back to top

Similar necklaces can be seen in Christianne Weber’s book Art Deco Jewelry- Jakob Bengel, Idar- Oberstein, Germany.

According to the RCJ (Researching Costume Jewelry) website, this is a mark found on contemporary imported costume jewelry from China. Back to top

Best Hallmark
Suzanne Bjontegard  
Bjontegard Trading Company, also known as Suzi B. is known for being a top presenter on QVC in England. She is also known for her wonderfully creative costume jewelry made with high quality rhinestones. Beginning in the mid 1990s Suzanne began to design costume jewelry that really appealed to sophisticated European tastes. She quickly became one of the most sought after designers in the industry. Launched a chain of boutiques in San Diego California called the PowdeRoom that carries her creations and those of other trendy designers.  Some of her fabulous costume jewelry was recently featured in the new book by Ann Pitman Inside the Jewelry Box Vol. 2.  Back to top




Auguste Bonaz

France Back to top

Auguste Bonaz Hallmark
Butler and Wilson  
England Back to top

France. Founded by: Jean Louis Henri Bousquet in 1964. He was surrounded by fashion ever since he was a young child as his father was a sewing machine salesperson. Jean Louis also studied tailoring. Known for perfume and the blouse that changed blouses in the mid 1960s. He also did a short stint in jail during the early 1990s having been convicted of corruption when he was mayor of Nimes. What a surprise! Kate Moss was one of his models. Gisele Bundchen is now the face of Cacheral Perfumes. The jewelry line began in 2004.  Has current website. Back to top

Cacharel Hallmark
Early 1900s [I have seen 1912 and 1914] - Present- France - Prior to her  first jewelry showing Coco Chanel was already a famous couture designer. Some Chanel designers include: Robert Goossens, Gripoix, Rousselet, Desrues, Filco di Verdura and Etienne de Beaumont. Some of the earlier jewelry and some of the recent jewelry was/is not signed. Back to top



Early jewelry made in China that found its way to the States was mostly silver, some with enamel. Most of it was either imported or brought over by Chinese immigrants or tourists during the 1880s to the 1930s. There were no imports after WWII. Trade did not resume until 1973 and then only in a small way. Known for their beautiful Peking glass, filigree, metalwork and enameling.  Many current designers from the world over  now have their designs made in China. Back to top Made in China Hallmark
Continental Jewellrey  
1940s - 1977. Founded by Sol Mayoff and Sam Baker. Canada~ Well thought of company that produced high quality rhinestone pieces. Their pieces are often compared to the greats such as Sherman, They became one of Canada's largest manufacturers. The company was sold to a Far East interest in 1977. Back to top Continental Hallmark
Taxco, Mexico - Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti- Originally lived in Mexico City. I read that she had a shop that opened in the 1930s. She and her family moved to Taxco where with the support of other artists such as Margot de Taxco, she opened her shop "Victoria" in 1940. This shop was known for work in silver and copper. Victoria closes in 1978. In 1953 she helped her daughter open a shop called "Cony".  I have also seen the date 1958 for when the "Cony" shop opened. All of the silver sold here was actually from the Victoria workshop. The pieces spanned many styles with an eye towards presentation. She was known to have excellent technical skills.   Back to top

Cony Hallmark

Cony Hallmark

Pieces were marked  Victoria/Cony from about 1958- 1975.
Marked Cony only after 1975.  
Coppola e Toppo  

Founder (s): Lyda Toppo and Bruno Coppola Milan Italy ~1941 - 1986-This brother and sister team designed jewelry for some of the most famous fashion houses including Christian Dior, Valentino and Schiaparelli. Their jewelry has adorned many models on the catwalk as well as countless Hollywood stars. The early pieces of the 1940s used a mark that was named after Lyda's dog "Mikey". During the 1950s this hallmark changes to the "Made in Italy by Coppola e Toppo" mark. The bold and very elaborate designs were a departure in style for the times and soon gained a following outside of the couture world. Soon the extravagant costume jewelry was being sold at the finest stores such as Neiman Marcus in the United States. In 1972 the company is taken over by a large Italian company and continues production until 1986. Jewelry by Coppola e Toppo is sought after, highly collectable and very expensive. At a recent [April 1, 2006] auction at Doyle New York a collar and two bracelet suite sold for a cool $11,400! Techniques/materials:  Elaborate beaded designs multi-strand necklaces and bracelets. Sometimes over-the-top looks. Swarovski crystals, Murano glass, plastic beads, signature heart shaped clasp. Back to top

Zoe Coste  
Christian Dior  

Founder (s): Christian Dior, France 1948 - Present- Christian Dior was born in 1905 in Normandy, France. He moved to Paris at the age of ten. His couture career began in 1935. Dior worked for some of the best including Lucien Lelong. In 1946 Christian Dior opened his own couture house. Dior is credited with reviving the fashion scene in post WWII Paris. Dior launched his first clothing line in 1947. The "New Look" fashions he designed were a far cry from the military attire and the severe suits that proceeded his more feminine look. He went on to become one of the most important clothing designers of our time. Dior is another fashion designer that made a mark in the costume jewelry business. Like Chanel, Schiaparelli and others he liked to accessorize his fashions. He was known to like very high quality jewelry, most of which was signed and sometimes dated.  It is believed that Dior designed the jewelry, however it was manufactured by others such as Henkel and Grosse of Germany and Schreiner. Dior is credited with being the first designer to use aurora borealis coated rhinestones. In the 1950s the Dior name was licensed to Kramer of New York. Kramer produced jewels for Dior and was allowed via this agreement to use the Dior name. Yves St. Laurent was apprentice at Dior and when Mr. Dior died in 1957, Laurent ran the house for a time. Kramer of NY now handles the extensive Dior product line. Signature Designs: Beautiful jewelry featuring aurora borealis rhinestones.  Back to top







Paris France - Known for his uncultured clothing, space age boxy, geometric  designs during the 1960s and mostly for introducing the mini skirt to Paris.  Back to top 

Courreges Hallmark
Czech Un-plated Jewelry  
Found on jewelry most likely made in Czechoslovakia  that is un plated on the back. Some think this is a way to make this newer jewelry appear older than it is. Back to top

Liliean Hallmark

Bijoux Hallmark

Husar D Hallmark
Means patented. Used in France, Germany and other European countries. Back to top

Depose Stamping
Canada - It is believed this company began in the early 1960s and that it is still in business.  In 2006 it was purchased by Creed Canada. A New York concern might also have had or has ownership now or at one time.  The pieces were made with a variety of materials including rhinestones, faux pearls and enamel. They are not abundant on the secondary market. Back to top

D'Orlan Hallmark and Item Number

Some of the marks did not include the item number and/or the apostrophe after the "D".
This the German mark for patent. It was used ca. 1891 to perhaps WWII.  The latter date could be as late as the 1950s. The mark was found on jewelry an other items and it was used by several producers. Back to top 
DRGM Hallmark
Anna Greta Eker  
Norway - Born in Finland. Worked at the PLUS workshop that was managed by her husband Erling Christophersen.  Back to top


This jewelry is usually bone china and marked in several ways. Most are floral designs. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Pretty and delicate floral designs. Back to top



Staffordshire  Made in England, Adderley  Made in England and Made in England

Germany, 1978. Wolfgang and Margaretha Ley. Mrs. Ley was a former model at Fath. She was the head designer at Escada. In addition to producing costume jewelry, the company produces fine jewelry and clothing as well as accessories. Back to top

Escada Hallmark

M. Ley for Escada Hallmark

Founder (s):   Theodor Fahrner Sr. and Georg Seeger- Pforzheim Germany ~ Mid 1850s - 1979 [I have also come across a 1960s date for the closure of this company]. Fahrner jewelry spans many design styles as the above dates would indicate. This very successful company began in the 1855 by Theodor's father. Theodor Jr. took over in about 1883. At about this time the firm expanded from their original product line of rings and into a wider range of jewelry. Fahrner worked with many of the areas designers and artists some of whom had careers in other areas of the arts such as painting and sculpting. He also had several permanent designers on staff. The end result was a great variety of work and many artistic styles. In 1900 at the Paris World's Fair, Fahrner jewelry designed by Max Gragl won an award.  In 1901 the company begins to export jewelry to Great Britain. Theodor Fahrner dies in 1919 and the company is sold to Gustave Braendle who changes the name to Gustave Braendle- Theodor Fahrner Nachf. and continues producing the fabulous jewelry they were known for. Early on and up to the 1920s Fahrner was best known for Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau styles that often incorporated semi precious stones and marcasites. The company was also known for Celtic Revival jewelry. After the 1920s and into the 1930s, the pieces became more geometric reflecting the Art Deco period. The use of filigree was introduced. During WWII, the firm was bombed and destroyed. All archives were lost. Braendle rebuilds his business along with his son [he had two others that were killed during the war] Herbert.  Gustave Braendle dies in 1952. Herbert continues producing jewelry until his death in 1979. Techniques/materials:  Daring designs. Silver [sometimes gold] set with semi- precious stones. Jugendstil styling. Matte enamel, white enamel, marcasites. Arts & Crafts and Art Deco looks. Geometric looks. Filigree and iron. Back to top














The "TF" trademark was first used in 1901

"Fahrner Schmuck" trademark  was first used on 1910

DEA Schmuck and  "TF Germany"

N. E. From - Niels Erik From  
Demark. Smithy registered in Nakskov in 1944, although he had a shop as early as 1931. Known for soft floral pieces, some with stones and pieces with a modernist look. Well made, solid pieces.  During the 1960s 1970s a large amount of the jewelry was exported around the world.  Back to top

N.E. From Hallmark
Rachel Gera  
Israel ~ Painter as well as jewelry designer.  Mixes Oriental and European styles to create bold and creative high end jewelry worn by many celebrities. Back to top


Rachel Gera Hallmark

Founder (s):  Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy ~ France 1952 to Present- Givenchy was raised by his grandmother after his father died. His grandmother was an artist and one can speculate that this had a lot to do with Hubert's choice of profession. Givenchy studied at the Ecole de Beaux Arts while working for Jacques Fath, another famous Parisian fashion designer. He worked for other designers including Lucien Lelong before joining Schiaparelli in 1950. In 1952, Hubert opened his own fashion house. He went on to create some very innovative fashions and accessories. He has dressed some of the very rich and famous, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Audrey Hepburn. I don't think it gets classier than that!  The costume jewelry from Givenchy is of very good to excellent quality and very collectable these days. Techniques/materials:  Heavy silver and gold plated pieces, enamel and rhinestones. Used some plastics and faux pearls. Back to top

Michal Golan  
Israel. Now resides in New York - Known for use of brilliant colors for her handcrafted jewelry.  She also uses semi- precious gemstones, fresh water pearls and 24k gold electroplating over brass. Middle eastern and Byzantine influences. many pieces look like mosaics. Along with jewelry she produces trinket boxes, ceramic art and more. Back to top









Robert Goossens  
France- high end couture jewelry that is well received. He was thought to be one of the top artists during costume jewelry's hey day! He produced pieces, sometimes perfume bottles for so many couture houses including; Chanel, Dior, YSL, Boinet, Mulger and more. He was from a family of casters giving him the opportunity to see how jewelry was created from a young age. The workshop has been directed by his son since the late 1970s. Goossens once controlled the YSL jewelry licenses. Highly designed metal, Byzantine barbarian style [Chanel].  Back to top  
Henkel and Grossé  
Founder (s): Heinrich Henkel and Florentin Grossé ~ Germany. The early work was in plastic and metal while later work incorporated crystals and rhinestones. Did work for Schiaparelli, Lanvin and Christian Dior.  Back to top


Italy. The House of Gucci has a long history. Founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci. Makers of high end leather goods, high end clothing and accessories.  He had a large family and after his death in 1953, one of his sons Aldo took control. Despite many disputes between the brothers on how to position the company going forward, they managed to open their first  New York store, expand into Asia and create their now famous signature GG logo. They also created a handbag called the Jackie O for former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy.  All of their success did not stop the fighting. Bad business decisions were also made, almost ruining the brand. In the late 1980s things turned around and by 1988 they were named European Company of the Year. More problems arose in the early 1990s and the company was again near bankruptcy.  During the late 1990s a luxury goods conglomerate/holding company LVMH [Louis Vuitton, Moet, Hennessey] increased shares in the company. Currently a subsidiary of Pinault-Printemps-Redoutte.  Back to top Gucci Hallmark
Hans Hansen  
Kolding Denmark - 1906.  Jewelry production began in about 1932 although Hans Hansen was designing since 1931.  The 1932 collection was designed by his son, Karl Gustav Hansen. Prior to this, flatware and hollowware was produced.  Other designers that produced for the workshop include: Bent Knudsen and during the 1980s, Allan Scharff. In 1992 this company became part of the Georg Jensen company.  Back to top

JayFlex Sterling  
Canada - ca. 1950s Back to top


Jørgen Jensen  
Denmark Back to top



Kupittaan Kulta  
Finland - Elis Kauppi, chief designer and others in 1945. One of Finland's foremost  manufactures of silver jewelry. Back to top


Christian Lacroix  
France. Late 1980s to present.  High end designer to many stars including Christina Aguilera. Known for innovation , irregular shapes, use of color and several design techniques on the same piece. Lacroix studied art history and wanted to be a museum curator. We are lucky that he happened upon fashion and later jewelry!  Worked at Hermes and Patou. Has current website.   Back to top

Christian Lacroix Hallmark
Graziella Laffi  
Active during the 1950s - Peru - She was actually born in Florence, Italy. Ms. Laffi has been called the Spratling of Peru. Some have said her work is right up there with the Mexican masters of her day. She worked in sterling and some gold. Some pieces are beautifully enameled. Some pieces have a modernist look. Also known for pre- Colombian and Cubist designs as well as striking figurals.   Back to top

Laffi Hallmark
Karl Lagerfeld  
Born in Germany emigrated to France where he apprenticed with Balmain. Worked with many couture houses most notably Chanel. Maintained a line of couture clothing and jewelry that bore his hallmark. He is often controversial and considered on the best haute couturiers.  He was not afraid to design a line for the Swedish company H&M [a discount chain] in 2004 and he was rewarded by having the line sell out in less than three days after release.  Back to top


Anni Lang , Germany ~ Known for high end glass necklaces. Designed for Louis Féraud, Paris in the 1970s. Back to top

Langani Hallmark
1889 Paris by  Jean- Marie Lanvin ~  Haute Couture fashions, men's fashion, perfume and jewelry. Founded the oldest couture house in Paris. After her death, her daughter ran the company. During the 1990s the company focused on ready- to wear, accessories and perfume. Back to top Lanvin Hallmark
Finland ~ to current day.  Several artists produced jewelry at this workshop including Bjorn Weckstrom. He was a graduate of the Goldsmith School. Many of his designs have been award winners. Many, if not all of the pieces were unconventional in design. The gold nugget and crinkled silver pieces become well known as did the Kinetic and sterling and acrylic Space pieces. In 1972, one of the Space rings was worn on the Dick Cavett show by Yoko Ono and created a sensation. A necklace called either Planetoid or Planetary Valley (I have seen if referred to both ways) was worn by Carrie Fisher as Princess Leia in Star Wars in 1977. Back to top

Weckstrom Hallmark
Guy Laroche Bjorn Weckstrom Hallmark from 1969.
Paris ~ Born in LaRochelle France in 1921. Opened first fashion house in 1957 after visiting the USA to learn about manufacturing "Ready-to- Wear clothing. Maker of the popular Drakkar Noir line of toiletries for men. Has won awards for his fabulous female friendly designs. Known for his attention to fine, fine detail work. His line including jewelry continues even after his death. Has current [2008] website. Back to top

Guy Laroche Hallmark

Guy Laroche Hallmark
France. Limoges in a city in France where many factories produced fine porcelain pieces. The area is also known for producing oak barrels for Cognac and enamels. A white clay called Kaolin was discovered in the area in 1768. This clay was used to make the famous porcelain.  Back to top

Limoges Hallmark
Occupied Japan, Made in Occupied Japan and Japan  
Japan was occupied by the Allies at the end of WWII from 1945- 1952. Items made during this period were usually marked Occupied Japan or Made in Occupied Japan. These items were usually for export. Pieces marked Japan were usually made prior to or after this time frame. Back to top Made in Occupied Japan Hallmark with Makers? Mark
Margot de Taxco  
Born as Margot van Voorhies Carr. She lived in San Francisco before moving to Mexico in the late 1930s.  She was married several times including her marriage to Antonio Castillo. She opened her shop and taller in 1948. At that time she worked in silver, adding her much sought after enamel pieces during the mid 1950s.  Several important silversmiths  worked at the taller including Miquel Melendez and Sigi Pineda. A host of enamellists also worked there. All of the pieces produced were designed by her. Her pieces include a design number  and according to the book Mexican Silver by Morrill and Beck, the earliest was 5100 and the last 5790. Her enamel pieces ranged in design numbers from 5109 - 5922. During the 1970s the shop eventfully went bankrupt due to union issues.  Margot died in 1983. Well known for her enamel pieces and her famous zodiac pieces.  Back to top

Margot de Taxco Hallmark

Margot de Taxco Silver Fitness Stamping

Both above marks found on sterling piece without enamel

Margot de Taxco Enaml Hallmark

Found on enamel piece.
England-The word means "watch tower" or to" look out".  Jewelry signifying an emotional bond between people that are separated.
We have seen several references to this company now being part of the company that produces Miracle jewelry. Back to top

Mizpah Hallmark
1870s- Thomas L Mott - England. Known for, butterfly wing jewelry, genre scenes, portrait  brooches, island map charms and other island influenced figurals. Mr. Mott is credited with making the  butterfly wing pieces popular during the 1920s. A real craze developed after a collection of these pieces were shown at the 1924 British Exposition.   The island jewelry was made during the 1960s and 1970s. Back to top

Hans Myhre  
Oslo, Norway  Back to top


Hans Myhre Hallmark

Also used an anchor mark

Michal Negrin
Israel. Launched first collection in 1988 at Tel Avis's Open Air Marketplace. Her first shop was opened soon thereafter.  In 1996 a factory studio was established. Negrin stores can be found all over the world. Her jewelry is inspired by vintage and antique pieces. She often blends styles. Her pieces use high end Swarovski crystals in fabulous colors.  Also designs accessories and clothing.  Has current website. Some new pieces are being sold on QVC. Back to top

Michal Negrin Hallmark

Michal Negrin Hallmark on Metal Hangtag

Michal Negrin Paper Handtag
Modernist jeweler from Poland. Back to top

Orno Hallmark
Sylvestre De Passille  
Quebec, 1960s- 1970s. Canada- Husband and wife team, Micheline de Passille and Yves Sylvestre. They are known for hand enameled modernist pieces on white and gold base metal, on sterling and on copper. Very colorful pieces. They are highly sought after by collectors.  Back to top

Sylvestre De Passille Hallmark

One hallmark. They signed full name on some pieces.  

de Passille- Sylvestre Hallmark
Antonio Pineda  
First shop opened in 1941, Mexico. In 1944 some of his work was shown at the Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco. The expo was international and the attendees took note of his work. In 1956 he expanded his operation. He established a museum in Taxco in the late 1980s where modern Mexican silver was displayed. His pieces are usually without North American or European influences. He preferred pre- Columbian designs.  Back to top

Antonia Pineda Crown Mark

Antonio Pineda within a crown
Sigi Pineda
Mexico 1952- Began his apprenticeship at the age of ten. He worked for Los Castillo for about three years. In 1950 he went to work for Margo de Taxco. At 23 he opened his own shop. His work has been exhibited in New York and at the Smithsonian. Back to top

Sigi Pineda Hallmark
Nina Ricci  
Italian born - moved to France Back to top
France. Back to top




Founder (s): Louis Rousselet Early 1920s ~ France ~ Louis Rousselet is thought to be one of the premier bead makers of the 20th century. He learned his craft early in Paris and soon he began to produce handmade beads of very high quality at his own company. His beads and faux pearls were soon noticed by the stars of the day including Josephine Baker and the fashion conscious French ladies as well. The company naturally grew and soon became on of the largest worldwide supplier of handmade beads. Rousselet produced opulent glass beads, beads made out of Galalith, simulated pearls. The shapes were interesting and the combinations unusual.  Some of the jewelry was marked with only a paper hang tag so it is possible to find unsigned Rousselet costume jewelry. Rousselet earrings have a different clip than we are used to seeing. It looks more like the finding found on a scarf clip than on an earring. See right. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Handmade glass beads, Galalith beads, fusing, bakelite, simulated pearls. Back to top


Israel. Back to top

Rozin Hallmark

Rozen Country and Silver Fineness Mark
Kultaseppä Salovaara  
Finland~ Founded during the early part of the 1950s. In 1970 the named was changed to  Kultaseppä Salovaara KY. Ownership  and name changed again several times after 1988.  Back to top

Kultaseppa Salovaara Hallmark

This hallmark is a polar bear with the word sterling.

Kultaseppa Salovaara Country Mark
Roger Scémama  
Founded in 1922 Paris. Roger Scémama was born in Tunis. In 1922 he found himself in Paris where he sold buttons to the ready to wear buyers. He then began making costume jewelry in leather. His wife was also involved and has been credited with driving the line, therefore creating the Scémama brand. She designed belts for YSL as well as the heart jewelry YSL was known for. During the 1930s, Scémama created costume jewelry for Schiaparelli. During the 1940s he became a prisoner of war until 1945. Once released, he worked with Jacques Fath. He also created jewelry for Dior in the1940s and some say these pieces further pushed his popularity. During the 1950s he worked with other names you know such as, Lanvin and Givenchy. His work with Yves Saint Laurent began in the 1960s. He worked with many materials including metal, leather, stones, Galalith and rhinestones. Themes ranged from opulent inspired by old jewels to natural. Many of his pieces can be found in pink, violet and green. He closed his Paris house in 1979 and died in 1989. Back to top  
Owner: Elsa Schiaparelli ~ Paris, France 1930s - Elsa Schiaparelli like her competitor Coco Chanel was a fashion designer. She began her fashion  career designing sweaters. Elsa was born in Rome, Italy in 1890. She moved to New York City to become a scriptwriter. Elsa loved fashion and the arts so by the time she moved to Paris in the 1920s she was more than ready to take on the world of high fashion. But not so fast, first she designed fine jewelry and then she opened her own couture house shortly thereafter. Again, like Chanel she wanted jewelry to complete her fashion designs and to wear. Schiaparelli was heavily influenced by the Surrealist Movement. One can see this in her fashions and her jewelry from this period. Quirky and sometimes downright bizarre, she was not afraid to do things differently. When a black dress was the uniform of the day, Elsa introduced Shocking Pink, which went on to become her signature color. Her "Shocking" line also included perfume and other cosmetics. Aside from introducing bold color into fashion, some of her other innovations include; large shoulder pads in woman's suits and offering ready to wear clothing.  Elsa Schiaparelli moved back to New York City prior to the start of WWII and back to Paris at the end of the war. In 1949 she licensed DeRosa to make her jewelry. Elsa also set up a retail shop in New York. She sold her Paris couture operation in 1954. The exact date that production stops is unknown, however the Schiaparelli name is still being used due to licensing agreements. Schiap jewels are not easy to find and they are pricey!! Other Schiaparelli designers include: Max Boinet, Lina Baretti, Jean Cocteau amongst others.  HINT: Early French pieces were not signed. Sometimes the necklace and earrings in a set are marked differently. There are many fakes on the market. These can be spotted by looking at the signature. The first "I" in last her name is missing.  Materials, techniques and signature looks: Shocking Pink! Unusual designs, stylized floras, chunky and irregular shaped stones.  Back to top
Scholtz and Lammel  
Idar Oberstein, Germany- Matte Cloisonné Enamels. It was once thought that this hallmark belonged to Karl Schibensky. Please read this article by Ginger Moro, author of European Designer Jewelry.   Back to top

Schibensky Hallmark
Thor Selzer  
Demark 1957. Modernist. Trained as a goldsmith. Opened workshop in 1957. He has designed pieces for Georg Jensen and his work can be found in the Danish Museum of Decorative Arts. Back to top

Thor Selzer Hallmark

Yves Saint Laurent

France - 1960s- Present ~ Very highly regarded designer and creator of modern elegance, he was a man of many firsts. He was the first to make "ready- to -wear popular and desired. He was the first to use African American models. He was the first fashion designer to be recognized by the Metropolitan Museum of Art .  Much of his [if not all] of his costume jewelry was made by some other designer. Some of this jewelry was created by Claude Lalanne, Roger Scémama, Robert Goossens, Maison Caillol, Michèle Baschet, Mason Denez, Martine Boutron and Maison Gripoix. There were probably others. Given this group you can guess that the jewelry all had a unique style depending on the designer and the purpose of the piece.  One thing the pieces have in common is their quality. Back to top

Founder [s]: Gustave Sherman, Canada 1947 -1981? Gustave Sherman was a self-made jewelry designer. He worked as a jewelry salesperson and as such grew to like his product. It probably took a lot of guts, since he was not trained as many of the day were, but he opened the Sherman Jewelry Company in Montreal in 1947 anyway. The rest as they say is history! In my very humble opinion, being a jewelry salesperson probably helped Mr. Sherman. After all, he knew what people were buying.  All he had to do was make the items his clients were buying better! His company really took off in the 1950s and soon he became Canada's foremost jewelry designer. He was known for pieces or extremely high quality that rivaled the real thing. He used only the finest Swarovski crystals/rhinestones even if he had to pay more for them. The Swarovski company also made stones on demand for Sherman. Sherman vintage costume jewelry is not easy to come by. It was expensive when it was made and it is expensive now. You can imagine that his production costs must have been very high so it is only natural that the finished pieces would be pricey. The jewels sold in some department stores, but the more elaborate designs were sold in small shops or boutiques. In the 1970s, when the trend was towards silver and gold- tone jewelry and jewelry of lesser quality, Sherman continued to make high quality, high end jewelry. As you can imagine this refusal to concede cost him business. Gustave made another bold move. He decided to make high quality gemstone jewelry set in precious metals. As luck [bad in this case] would have it, the price of gold went through the roof. As a result the company was forced to close. Sherman jewelry is highly collectable. The japanned pieces and the pieces with purple, red, black and yellow stones are especially sought out. Fuchsia is also a color collectors like. The prices for this vintage jewelry continues to rise. I can see why. Once you own a piece of his wonderful costume jewelry, you will want more! Signature Designs and Techniques:  The highest quality Swarovski crystals and stones,  multicolored rhinestones. Prong set stones. Gold-plated and Rhodium backings along with Japanned backings. Monochromatic color combinations as well as unusual combinations. Pastel shades. Navettes/marquise cut stones were used quite a bit. Back to top

Example of the Japanned Backing


Sherman's Senator Hallmark

This is a Sherman Hallmark found on men's jewelry.

Lea Stein  
France, Mid 1950s- 1980. Closed her shop in 1980 and reopened it in the late 1980s- early 1990s. Known for delightful plastic jewelry produced with a process called laminated Celluloid developed by her husband. Several sheets of celluloid were sandwiched together to produce the colorful patterns seen her jewelry. The pieces are widely collected. Two of the more famous are; the Joan Collins and Ric the dog pins. Older pieces do not have a rivet holding the pin assembly to the plastic. Back to top Lea Stein Hallmark
Sten & Laine  
Turku, Finland  Back to top

1972 Sten and Laine Hallmark

Founder (s): Daniel Swarovski, Franz Weis and Armand Kosmann - Wattens Austria ~ 1895 Daniel was born in 1862 into a family that knew a lot about cutting glass/crystal. Bohemia was the center of the crystal universe and cutting crystal was his fathers profession. In 1892 Daniel was able to attain a patent for a machine that would cut crystal fast and with precision. The machine produced crystals that were beautifully faceted and "real" looking.  They were so lovely that it did not take long before Swarovski became the leading supplier of crystals to not only Austria but beyond!  Many costume jewelry designers use Swarovski crystals and rhinestones. Some such as Gustave Sherman had the company produce one of a kind stones for their creations. Swarovski also produced optical products and grinding tools. In 1955 the company, along with Christian Dior, developed the aurora borealis coating. A plant was opened in Providence R.I., USA in the 1970s.  I believe it is closing or has closed. In 1977 Swarovski began to produce costume jewelry. Their line "Silver Crystal" figurines are quite popular. Signature Designs/Techniques:  The finest cut crystal and rhinestones.  Back to top


Other Hallmarks:


Edelweiss Mark


Canada  Back to top

Triad Hallmark
Tone Vigeland  
Norway - 1938 born in Oslo. Apprenticed at the PLUS workshop along with Anna Greta Eker. Ms. Vigeland is considered once of Norway's finest artists. She has produced works in sterling, gold and even steel. Her work is often called simple and streamlined. It is elegant and many are in the modernist style. Her work was exhibited in London and later New York creating a sensation.  Back to top

Perli Werkstatt

1922 Swäbisch Gmünd, Germany. Known for great metal work, hammered silver and handcrafted enamels. Jewelry was shown at the Paris Expo in 1937. According to Ginger Moro's book European Designer Jewelry, the company closed in 1993. Back to top Perli Hallmark
Butler & Wilson  
1970s- current on QVC. Founded in England. Nicky Butler and Simon Wilson. Their early pieces were reproductions or inspired by vintage and antique pieces. By 1990 they expanded to handbags and accessories. In 1994 the company began selling on QVC.Semi precious jewels were introduced in 2000 and in 2007 men's jewelry was added to their collections.  The pieces are often large, unique and made with interesting high quality stones.  Have current website.   Back to top

Butler and Wilson Hallmark
Marcin Zaremski  
Poland. Studied interior design at the Academy of Arts in Warsaw. Grew up in parents [Jerzy and Jadwiga] studio where he was around jewelry making all the time. His parents are considered pioneers of modernist jewelry in Poland. Marcin is known for clean and constructivist. He works in silver, copper, gold plated metal and amber. 1974 -Began  creating jewelry and in 1991 opened a gallery. He has several now and a current website. Back to top Marcin Zaremski Hallmark

  Mystery Marks

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Other Jewelry Resources on this Site:

Vintage Jewelry Ads

Vintage Fashion Ads

Vintage Cosmetic Ads

Jewelry Glossary - Work in Progress


Vintage Jewelry Article Library

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Sources for information found on this site

  I recommend all of these sites and books for research!
American Jewelry Manufactures Dorothy Rainwater
Unsigned Beauties of Costume Jewelry Marcia Brown
Signed Beauties of Costume Jewelry Vol. 1 Marcia Brown
Collectable Silver Jewelry Fred Rezazadeh
Inside the Jewelry Box Vol. 1 ,2 and 3 Ann Pitman
Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 ~ 2004 Julia Carroll
Plastic Jewelry of the Twentieth Century Lillian Baker - with the update by Karina Parry and Ginger Moro
Costume Jewelry ~1998 with the Updated 2002 Values Fred Rezazadeh
Miriam Haskell Jewelry Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff
Warman's Jewelry Christie Romero
Warman's Antique Jewelry Field Guide C. Jeannenne Bell
The Little Book of Mexican Silver Trade and Hallmarks ~ 2001 and the Revised 2006 Edition Billie Hougart
Fabulous Fakes Carole Tanenbaum
European Designer Jewelry Ginger Moro
Collecting Victorian Jewelry C. Jeannenne Bell
Answers to Questions about Old Jewelry C. Jeannenne Bell
A Century of Jewelry-Classy, Flashy and Trashy Deborah Crosby
Costume Jewelry - The Great Pretenders Lyngerda Kelly and Nancy Schiffer
Costume Jewelry Judith Miller
Rhinestone Jewelry Leigh Leshner
Sarah Coventry Jewelry Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser Clements
Fifty Years of Collectable Fashion Jewelry 1925-1975 Lillian Baker
Coro Jewelry Marcia Brown
Mexican Silver Penny Morrill and Carole Berk
Tiffany Jewels John Loring
Costume Jewelry Leigh Leshner
Cufflinks Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson
Powder Compacts Juliette Edwards
Vintage Jewelry 1920s- 1940s Leigh Leshner
What's it Made of? - Third Edition Sheryl Gross Shatz
Collecting Costume Jewelry 202 - The Basics of Dating Jewelry 1935- 1980 Julia C. Carroll
A Tribute to America - Costume Jewelry 1935- 1950 and American Costume Jewelry Carla and Roberto Brunialti
Rhinestone Jewelry- Figurals, Animals and Whimsicals Marcia Brown
How to be a Jewelry Detective C. Jeanenne Bell
Art Deco Jewelry Jakob Bengel Christianne Weber
Art Nouveau Jewelry Vivienne Becker
Copper Art Jewelry Burkholz and Kaplan
Modernist Jewelry 1930- 1960 Marbeth Schon
Handbags Barbara Hagerty
Art Deco Jewelry Sylvia Raulet
Gem Identification Made Easy Matlins/Bonanno
Secrets of the Gem Trade Richard Wise
Mid- century Plastic Jewelry Susan Klein
Memoirs of a Fashion Jewelry Manufacturer Frank DeLizza
Vintage Compacts and Beauty Accessories Lynell Schwartz
Jewelry to the Stars [Joseff of Hollywood] Joanne Ball
Theodor Fahrner Jewelry Schmundt, Weber and Becker
Popular Jewelry 1840 -1940 Roseann Ettinger
Juliana Jewelry Nancy Zell
Christmas Tree Pins Nancy Throwbridge
Christmas Pins Jill Gallina
Hallmarks of the Southwest Barton Wright
Warman's Costume Jewelry Figurals Kathy Flood
Costume Jewelry for Haute Couture Florence Müller
Jewels of Fantasy - Costume Jewelry of the 20th Century Deanna Farneti Cera [et all]
Faking It Kenneth Jay Lane and Harrice Miller
Shamelessly Nancy Schiffer
The Art of Juliana Jewelry Katerina Musetti
Brooches Lori Ettlinger Gross
Estate Jewelry   Diana Sanders Cinamon

Amazing Gems- 

Deanna Cera
Vintage Jewelry Leigh Leshner
Enamel Jewelry Dale Nicholls and Robin Allison
Rhinestones Nancy Schiffer
Read My Pins Madeleine Albright
Form and Function- American Modernist Jewelry Marbeth Schon
Costume Jewelry 303 Julia C Carroll
Juliana Jewelry Reference Ann Pitman
Sherman Jewelry Caldwell and Yallen
All My Baskets Ricci
American Costume Jewelry Art and Industry Roberto and Carla Brunialti  


RCJ -Researching Costume Jewelry
All About Jewels - Jewelry Glossary

I am always purchasing books. This list is a like a living thing, always changing. As I purchase and fall in love with additional books, I will add them here.  

Proud member of:

 Jewelry Talk

 Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry Club

 Jewel Collect, Silver Forum and

Discovering Juliana Jewelry

The Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts

Questions? We are more than happy to try and help! Customer Support

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