Founder (s): Whitney and Rice Company Attleboro, MA USA 1876 -Okay this gets a bit complicated as this company has been around for some time and has had a few name and location changes. Napier is one of the oldest jewelry companies in the United States, however the contemporary jewelry signed Napier, probably has very little in common with the jewelry produced by Whitney and Rice. Whitney and Rice was founded as a silver manufacturing company. They produced watches mostly. In 1882- 1883 the company was sold and the name was changed to Carpenter and Bliss and then again to E. A. Bliss and Company. [E.A. Bliss and J.E. Carpenter].  The company experienced above average growth and soon moved from MA to Meriden, Connecticut. In 1920 James Napier became president of the still growing company.  The name was changed to Napier Bliss Co. In 1922 the name was changed yet again to Napier Company. The company continued to thrive under Mr. Napier until his retirement in the 1960s.  Napier was sold in the 1990s. In 1999 the Meridian office/plant was closed.  Napier jewelry was being produced by the Jones Apparel Group and although very successful, the jewelry lacks the quality of the older pieces.  I checked the Jones Apparel website on January 14, 2007 and while Napier is still listed you can no longer click on the provided link. I have read that Jones Apparel stopped producing Napier jewelry and perhaps this explains the link. Further research required!  Speaking of research,  a member of the Jewel Collect online forum that I belong to is writing a book about this wonderful company. The book should go a long way to clear up some of the questions about Napier. The older pieces and the sterling silver pieces are sought after and very collectable.  Many hallmarks were used.  Back to top

Founder (s): Beneditto Panetta along with his sons, Armand and Amedeo ~ 1945 New York, NY USA -Italian born Beneditto Panetta came to the United States in the early 1900s. In Italy he manufactured and sold fine jewelry. Panetta worked for Trifari and Pennino designing some of their costume jewelry. In 1945 along with his sons he began his own jewelry business where his background in fine jewelry certainly came into play. Panetta jewelry is extremely well made. His pieces are heavily rhodium or gold plated and often resemble the real thing. Sterling silver was also used. Also of note is the amount of detail that is seen in these pieces. Signature Designs: Pave set enamel jewelry, high quality rhinestones and elaborate settings. Rhodium, gold plated and sterling backings. Detailed workmanship.  Back to top

Erwin Pearl

Founder (s):  Erwin Pearl as Erwin Pearl Inc., 1952- Present [visit http://www.erwinpearl.com] Erwin Pearl was born in Vienna, Austria and came to the United States at the onset of WWII as so many Europeans did. He became a sought after diamond cutter with many wealthy clients. He soon opened his own fine jewelry firm and later began to produce costume jewelry. There is an Erwin Pearl shop on Newbury Street in Boston, MA! I love that store!! Techniques:  Styles range from classic to funky and fun.  Update: May 2008: I have seen Erwin Pearl now being sold on QVC. Back to top

Founder (s): Alfred, William, Anthony and Joseph Gaita as the Pell Jewelry Co. Long Island, NY 1941- present -The four above mentioned gents were brothers. From the beginning the brothers produced costume jewelry that was of good quality. Pavé set stones were used in many pieces. The Pell Jewelry Co. made jewelry for Disney, and beauty pageants.  Some of their tiaras are just stunning! The company is still in business and their newer pieces are being sold on QVC. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Figurals, pavé set stones, Christmas Trees.  Back to top

Pennino

Founder (s): Oreste Pennino as the Pennino Jewelry Company ~ New York City, NY USA 1927 - 1961 -This company was in business for less than forty years. During this time they produced some of the prettiest costume jewelry you will see if you have a taste for the classics. Known for making high quality pieces with fabulous designs and a sophisticated look. Their jewelry was not produced in abundance making it hard to find on the market. There is some suspicion that not all of the jewelry was signed. The pieces marked "Pennino Sterling" command the highest prices. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Use of clear rhinestones of the highest quality, heavily plated settings, sterling.  Back to top

Additional Hallmarks:

Pennino in script, Pennino Pat  Pend and Pennino Sterling

Founder (s): Pauline Rader 1962- It is thought that her company closed in the 1980s. While in business Pauline Rader produced a limited amount of costume jewelry, usually for special clients. Some of her jewelry was sold in boutiques. Her design style was towards the larger heavily plated pieces. Pauline Rader jewelry is rare. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Large gothic looking pieces, pieces with a Classical influence, Russian gold plating, pave set stones, glass beads and interesting stones. Unique jewelry.  Back to top

Founder (s): Regina Novelty Company New York, NY 1950s - 1970s- Information regarding this company is scarce. The costume jewelry is always well made with high quality and unique rhinestones. It was marketed directly to department stores in large cities. Regency costume jewelry was not always signed with the copyright symbol. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Multi- colored rhinestones, beautiful combinations. Frosted stones.  Colorful butterfly pins. Back to top

Founders: 1920s- 1950s?  Reinad Novelty Company ~ New York, NY- This is another company with an interesting history. It seems that during the 1940s they produced a line of costume jewelry with the mark "Chanel Novelty Company".  The jewelry was marked Chanel in script. Well, they were not associated with Coco Chanel and as you might expect, she or her company did not like the use of the name "Chanel Novelty Company." Jewelry marked "Chanel" in script was only made during 1941. It is very rare. This company is said to have produced jewelry for other companies. Perhaps that is why there is a near identical "Oriental Princess" pin/clip signed Hattie Carnegie on the market. Or perhaps they copied the Carnegie pin. I don't know for certain, but I love them both!  Signature Designs:  High quality materials. I have seen several "face" jewels with this companies mark. Back to top

Nettie Rosenstein

Founder (s): Nettie Rosenstein 1935 - 1975 -Austrian born Nettie Rosenstein was another fashion designer turned jewelry designer. She opened her first business in New York selling woman's clothing in the early 1920s. In the early 1930s after a brief retirement she opened a fashion house selling clothing and accessories including jewelry. Rosenstein jewelry is of very good quality and imaginative. The signed sterling pieces and the heraldic pieces are the most sought after. Signature  Designs/Techniques:   Large and small figurals, enamel, quality rhinestones, heraldic motifs, sterling pieces.  Back to top

Founder (s): New York City, NY ~ 1925 - 1962 as H. M. Schrager and Co. -There is not a lot of information about this company. The costume jewelry produced by this company was extremely well made with the highest quality materials. From 1925 to 1959 the hallmarks "House of Schrager", "Schrager", and "House of Schrager" were used.  After 1959 the costume jewelry was marked "Jonne" or on a paper hang tag "Jonne" on one side and "House of Schrager" on the other side. The jewelry produced by this company is a rare find. Signature Designs: High quality rhinestones, beautiful bead work like that of Haskell, pearls and poured glass. Back to top

Owner/Founder: Henry Schreiner 1939?- 1970s New York City- In 1923 Henry Schreiner came to the USA from Germany. He was a blacksmith by trade.  Henry arrived in New York and found a job at a buckle company making shoe buckles. He learned a lot about the fashion industry on the job and this training served him well. Designed jewelry for others such as Dior. Models wore his costume jewelry on the catwalks. Schreiner jewelry is not all signed. The jewelry he made for retail was, however the jewelry created for his other clientele was not. The company never mass produced jewelry. His daughter joined the company in the early fifties and after Henry died she continued the fine design work until the firm closed in the 1970s. The ruffle brooch is in great demand. Signature Designs: Paste stones, German and Czechoslovakian stones, inverted stones, unusual rhinestone combinations, keystone cut rhinestones, hook and eye construction, unusual settings, triangular prongs and extravagant designs. The inverted stones are set with the point of the rhinestone facing up and the flat table facing down. This was said to pick up the color of the garment it was placed against and to produce extra sparkle. Back to top

Other hallmarks: Schreiner, Schreiner NY

Founder (s): Eugene Schultz as the Eugene Jewelry Company ~ 1950s to the 1960s- The dates listed above are a best guess and it is thought the company was based in New York City, NY, USA. The story used to go something like, Eugene was a designer for Miriam Haskell prior to opening his own company. According to the book Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff, he did not work for Haskell. After his death, the book states, that Eugene's sample maker joined Haskell. Rumors are hard to quell once they get started. Eugene did indeed have his own company. Eugene used similar techniques as Haskell, DeMario and Robert so naturally the jewelry would be similar. His company was not in operation for very long and subsequently did not manufacture a lot of costume jewelry. This jewelry is not easy to find and can be costly. Many pieces are not marked. Techniques:  Beaded and pearl jewelry of high quality. Fancy clasps. Wired beads to filigree backings. Back to top

also "A Selini Original" on a paper hang tag.

Founder (s): Victor Sorrentino - Providence RI ~ 1911-When founded this costume jewelry company was named after Victor Sorrentino. In the early 1920s, the name was changed to Uncas Manufacturing Company. Sorrento is one of the trademarks used by this company. It is believed the mark was used beginning sometime in 1950s. Uncas was also used as a hallmark. Signature Designs: Sterling silver and gold plated jewelry. Back to top

Hallmark:

Sorrento

Founder (s): The information about this company is limited. I have read that this is the same company as the Star Novelty Company of Chicago. Star Novelty Company used the mark Staret. I can find no reference to this company [Star] being associated with the Star Novelty Company/Staret. Costume jewelry with the mark "STAR" is of average quality with some of the rhinestone jewelry being better. The jewelry was most likely made between 1940 and the 1960s. Signature Designs: Thermoplastic jewelry, rhinestone jewelry and figural jewelry. Back to top

Founder (s): Star Novelty Company Chicago IL, USA ~ Most Likely 1935 - 1947 In 1941 the name Staret was registered  in the Jewelry Board of Trade Directory and used until 1947 according to Brunialti A Tribute to America  page 41. -I do not believe this is the same company that produced jewelry using the mark STAR. The Star Novelty Company, using the mark Staret, produced some of the finest costume jewelry during the 1940s. Notice that the company was based in Chicago just as Eisenberg so I suppose there was bound to be a comparison between the two. It just so happens that this time the comparison is justified. This company produced high- end costume jewelry in premium settings such as rhodium with the highest quality rhinestones. Some of their patriotic designs include the famous Liberty Torch from 1942 and the Remember Pearl Harbor pin from the same year. The torch pin is often reproduced and sold on eBay as the real thing! This company was also well known for figural jewelry. Not all of their pieces were signed and it is believed that some of the pieces might have been produced for Staret by another manufacturer. Their jewelry is considered rare. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Figurals, patriotic jewelry, quality, colorful rhinestones and floral brooches. Back to top

Founder (s): Edward Swoboda, Los Angeles CA, USA ~ 1955/1956 - the 1980s- Edward Swoboda knew a thing or two about gemstones. He used his knowledge to create jewelry usually in gold plated metal set with genuine gemstones such as jade, coral, opals and peridot. Some of their costume jewelry was set with cultured pearls. His jewelry became a favorite of the Hollywood scene and Nancy Regan commissioned one of the companies cypress tree pins when her husband was governor of California in 1966. In 1957 Nate Waxman joins the company. He ran the company after Edward retired.  When Swoboda closed Nate went on to sell jewelry on the internet. By the 1960s Swoboda had three showrooms. The jewelry was not marked until 1966. The gorgeous designs sold at most of the better department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue. Some of their popular pieces have been re-issued recently. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Costume jewelry with gemstones. Oriental looks and Victorian looks as well. Back to top

This is a 1970s hallmark and was found on a necklace with the hallmark below.

One of many Trifari Designers - Kunio Matsumoto

Founder (s):  Herman Unger as Unger Bros. 1872 - 1814 ~ Newark NJ, USA-Originally from Germany, the family came to the United States in 1849. Herman Unger, the eldest of five sons began a jewelry business around 1872. In roughly 1878 sterling silver pieces were produced. All five sons eventually joined the business. Three of the brothers died, leaving Herman and brother Eugene to continue running the company. Unger Bros. went on to become the leading manufacturer of Art Nouveau sterling silver pieces in the United States. The became known for their impressive and creative dresser and desk sets as well as hatpin holders and smoking items. Some of their most collectable items are the unusually shaped and those that are decorated with female or American Indian motifs.  Some of their pieces were named. Some of the outdated molds and dies were sold to other companies. Pieces made with these molds were usually unmarked. Techniques/materials:  Sterling silver items with Art Nouveau designs such as woman with flowing hair. Cherubs and animal motifs as well as floral and foliate motifs. Heavy chasing. Back to top 

This mark was in use until 1910.

Larry Vrba

Most repros have textured backs like this.

Backs of above earrings shows what authentic Weiss looks like

Baltimore, MD -Betty Cooke is a skilled artist and an alum of the Maryland Institute College of Art where she received her Bachelor or Arts degree.  While studying she also found the time to apprentice with a jeweler in the area. She taught jewelry making at the Institute for at least two decades. Bette Cooke also ran a showroom in Baltimore, Maryland where the shopper could find her creations as well as those of some of her contemporaries. I believe it is still in operation.  Her jewelry was/is also sold in a select few stores. She has been the recipient of the DeBeers Diamond Today Award twice. Once in 1979 and again in 1981. She has worked with fashion designer Geoffrey Beene. Her designs are sculptural, geometric and well crafted. Like most studio or modern wearable art it is not fussy. She works in silver and other metals.  The prices for her jewelry has been on a steady climb upward. Back to top

New York, NY -Greenwich Village must have been a cool place to live during the late thirties and onward into the 1960s. Sam Kramer was one of many "artist" jewelers that had studios there creating fabulous expressionistic jewelry. While Sam did take some jewelry making and gemology classes he was a journalist by training. After working a while at a newspaper he went to work for a jewelry store. He moved to New York during the 1950s where he opened his first studio. His jewelry shows his surrealist eccentricities. He was a groundbreaker, tearing down the notions of what jewelry was and how it was perceived. Jewelry as art!  His pieces command a high price. Layering and assemblage. Mixed materials, sometimes used stones as decoration. Back to top

Top of the circle surrounding the "Mushroom" mark. The rest is obscured by the cufflink closure rod.  The rest of the mark is a mushroom in the middle of the circle.

California, USA -When I think of Modern Studio Jewelry I usually think of Greenwich Village New York. The west coast did have a thriving scene with several silver artists including Margaret De Patta and Esther Lewittes. Lewittes handcrafted silver items are often decorated with cultured pearls. She also works in mixed materials such as silver and wood or even glass.  As with many Modernists, her lines are geometric, but to me not as severe as some of her contemporaries.  Back to top

Paul Lobel

It is impossible to discuss American Studio Modernist artists without mentioning Paul Lobel.  He was after all one of the pioneers of the art form. Picture the scene: Greenwich Village, New York, late 1930s into the 1940s. Artists and poets along with those that aspire to be all congregating in the same area. Everywhere you turned you would see new fashions, jewelry, paintings, sculptures unlike anything preceding.  Lobel, originally from Romania was part of this scene. He was not only a jewelry artist, he was a painter and a sculptor with a background in design. Lobel worked not only with silver but with glass, bronze, steel, wood and later even plastic.  It seems that during WWII with the restrictions on other materials, Lobel worked mostly with silver as did so many during this time frame. During the mid 1940s, Paul Lobel opened his studio. Paul Lobel passed away in 1983. Signature Designs:  Simple sleek designs. Flowers, animals.  Silver and many other materials. Back to top

Founder (s): Otto Robert Babe 1960s -Otto Robert Babe was the plant manager for the modernist jewelry artist Rebajes from the early 1940s to around 1958. As such he was responsible for getting the Rebajes pieces that were now being produced by several people using the Rebajes designs at a factory. Otto Babe and Frank Rebajes came up with the assembly-line method to keep production on schedule. When Rebajes retired from the company he founded in the 1960s, Otto Babe bought the Rebajes  catalog of designs and machinery. He continued to produce jewelry using the designs. Signature Designs: Sterling silver jewelry in the style of Rebajes.  Back to top

Founder (s):  Francisco [Frank] Rebajes - New York City, NY, USA ~ 1932- 1967 [Spain ~ 1967-1990] -Rebajes probably didn't think so, but he was destined for greatness. He wound up in Greenwich Village, New York, the right place and at the right time, the 1920s. The Village of the 1920s was the bastion of the intellectuals, the think outside the box types. Poets and artists, writers all bursting with then revolutionary ideas. I have read that Rebajes was born in Spain. I think this is false. I believe he spent some time in Spain during his childhood.  Francisco was born in the Dominican Republic and arrived in America in the early 1920s. He did not have a lot of cash and he had even less prospects so he did odd jobs. After his marriage in the early 1930s he began to sculpt. Rebajes was able to sell some of these sculptures which allowed him to open a shop selling similar items and jewelry around 1932. He had a great imagination and was extremely creative. Both traits show in his jewelry. He was self-taught, so unlike some of the "trained" artist's his own mind was his guide. His work was bold and commanded attention. He developed a loyal following and Francisco soon found himself as one of the leading artists in Modernist jewelry. A larger shop was opened. He opened several more each larger than the prior. Soon he opened a retail shop on Fifth Avenue around 1942. Rebajes made his jewelry with a finish that was more natural as opposed to shiny like that of Matisse/Renoir. He also worked in silver. His sterling pieces are highly sought after. Francisco relocated to Spain along with his wife in the late 1950s - early 1960s. He went to Spain it is said, to tone his life down a bit. He continued to sculpt and create jewelry there until his death in 1990. Before leaving, he sold all of his equipment and designs to his longtime foreman Otto Bade. Techniques/materials:  Powerful copper and some sterling pieces. Ethnic pieces. Warm copper finish. Back to top

Founder (s): David Andersen, Oslo, Norway in 1876. -The founder died in 1901. At that time his son Arthur Andersen took over the helm. Several family members joined the retailer and manufacturer of silver jewelry plus other items throughout the years. Several well known Norwegian designers worked for the company. The designers names are not always found on the finished piece. The well known enameled pieces began being produced in the early part of the twentieth century. Signature Designs: Sterling leaf designs with colored enamel. Back to top

David Andersen Mark with Designer/Artist Willie Winnaess

David Andersen Mark with Designer/ Artist Karl Jorgen Otteren

Similar necklaces can be seen in Christianne Weber’s book Art Deco Jewelry- Jakob Bengel, Idar- Oberstein, Germany.

Founder (s): Lyda Toppo and Bruno Coppola Milan Italy ~1941 - 1986-This brother and sister team designed jewelry for some of the most famous fashion houses including Christian Dior, Valentino and Schiaparelli. Their jewelry has adorned many models on the catwalk as well as countless Hollywood stars. The early pieces of the 1940s used a mark that was named after Lyda's dog "Mikey". During the 1950s this hallmark changes to the "Made in Italy by Coppola e Toppo" mark. The bold and very elaborate designs were a departure in style for the times and soon gained a following outside of the couture world. Soon the extravagant costume jewelry was being sold at the finest stores such as Neiman Marcus in the United States. In 1972 the company is taken over by a large Italian company and continues production until 1986. Jewelry by Coppola e Toppo is sought after, highly collectable and very expensive. At a recent [April 1, 2006] auction at Doyle New York a collar and two bracelet suite sold for a cool $11,400! Techniques/materials:  Elaborate beaded designs multi-strand necklaces and bracelets. Sometimes over-the-top looks. Swarovski crystals, Murano glass, plastic beads, signature heart shaped clasp. Back to top

Founder (s): Christian Dior, France 1948 - Present- Christian Dior was born in 1905 in Normandy, France. He moved to Paris at the age of ten. His couture career began in 1935. Dior worked for some of the best including Lucien Lelong. In 1946 Christian Dior opened his own couture house. Dior is credited with reviving the fashion scene in post WWII Paris. Dior launched his first clothing line in 1947. The "New Look" fashions he designed were a far cry from the military attire and the severe suits that proceeded his more feminine look. He went on to become one of the most important clothing designers of our time. Dior is another fashion designer that made a mark in the costume jewelry business. Like Chanel, Schiaparelli and others he liked to accessorize his fashions. He was known to like very high quality jewelry, most of which was signed and sometimes dated.  It is believed that Dior designed the jewelry, however it was manufactured by others such as Henkel and Grosse of Germany and Schreiner. Dior is credited with being the first designer to use aurora borealis coated rhinestones. In the 1950s the Dior name was licensed to Kramer of New York. Kramer produced jewels for Dior and was allowed via this agreement to use the Dior name. Yves St. Laurent was apprentice at Dior and when Mr. Dior died in 1957, Laurent ran the house for a time. Kramer of NY now handles the extensive Dior product line. Signature Designs: Beautiful jewelry featuring aurora borealis rhinestones.  Back to top

Hallmarks:

Staffordshire  Made in England, Adderley  Made in England and Made in England

Founder (s):   Theodor Fahrner Sr. and Georg Seeger- Pforzheim Germany ~ Mid 1850s - 1979 [I have also come across a 1960s date for the closure of this company]. Fahrner jewelry spans many design styles as the above dates would indicate. This very successful company began in the 1855 by Theodor's father. Theodor Jr. took over in about 1883. At about this time the firm expanded from their original product line of rings and into a wider range of jewelry. Fahrner worked with many of the areas designers and artists some of whom had careers in other areas of the arts such as painting and sculpting. He also had several permanent designers on staff. The end result was a great variety of work and many artistic styles. In 1900 at the Paris World's Fair, Fahrner jewelry designed by Max Gragl won an award.  In 1901 the company begins to export jewelry to Great Britain. Theodor Fahrner dies in 1919 and the company is sold to Gustave Braendle who changes the name to Gustave Braendle- Theodor Fahrner Nachf. and continues producing the fabulous jewelry they were known for. Early on and up to the 1920s Fahrner was best known for Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau styles that often incorporated semi precious stones and marcasites. The company was also known for Celtic Revival jewelry. After the 1920s and into the 1930s, the pieces became more geometric reflecting the Art Deco period. The use of filigree was introduced. During WWII, the firm was bombed and destroyed. All archives were lost. Braendle rebuilds his business along with his son [he had two others that were killed during the war] Herbert.  Gustave Braendle dies in 1952. Herbert continues producing jewelry until his death in 1979. Techniques/materials:  Daring designs. Silver [sometimes gold] set with semi- precious stones. Jugendstil styling. Matte enamel, white enamel, marcasites. Arts & Crafts and Art Deco looks. Geometric looks. Filigree and iron. Back to top

The "TF" trademark was first used in 1901

"Fahrner Schmuck" trademark  was first used on 1910

DEA Schmuck and  "TF Germany"

Founder (s):  Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy ~ France 1952 to Present- Givenchy was raised by his grandmother after his father died. His grandmother was an artist and one can speculate that this had a lot to do with Hubert's choice of profession. Givenchy studied at the Ecole de Beaux Arts while working for Jacques Fath, another famous Parisian fashion designer. He worked for other designers including Lucien Lelong before joining Schiaparelli in 1950. In 1952, Hubert opened his own fashion house. He went on to create some very innovative fashions and accessories. He has dressed some of the very rich and famous, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Audrey Hepburn. I don't think it gets classier than that!  The costume jewelry from Givenchy is of very good to excellent quality and very collectable these days. Techniques/materials:  Heavy silver and gold plated pieces, enamel and rhinestones. Used some plastics and faux pearls. Back to top

Also used an anchor mark

Rousselet

Founder (s): Louis Rousselet Early 1920s ~ France ~ Louis Rousselet is thought to be one of the premier bead makers of the 20th century. He learned his craft early in Paris and soon he began to produce handmade beads of very high quality at his own company. His beads and faux pearls were soon noticed by the stars of the day including Josephine Baker and the fashion conscious French ladies as well. The company naturally grew and soon became on of the largest worldwide supplier of handmade beads. Rousselet produced opulent glass beads, beads made out of Galalith, simulated pearls. The shapes were interesting and the combinations unusual.  Some of the jewelry was marked with only a paper hang tag so it is possible to find unsigned Rousselet costume jewelry. Rousselet earrings have a different clip than we are used to seeing. It looks more like the finding found on a scarf clip than on an earring. See right. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Handmade glass beads, Galalith beads, fusing, bakelite, simulated pearls. Back to top